Just to let you know I have added pictures to the majority of the posts up to our stay in Condom, will add others when time permits.
Jeremy
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Camino Reflections Part 1
When we left Spain I promised a few reflections on our experiences so far. I have not forgotten, but needed a couple of weeks to get my thoughts together. The 6th of November was the date we were supposed to be in Santiago, and we heard from our friend Luc, that he had arrived safely and that it was raining!
LUC
There is so much to reflect on, but to first thoughts. I guess my most special memories about our Camino so far are going to be about the many wonderful people we met, some only once or twice others many more times.
At the beginning of the trip, the three Australians, the French couple who sat with us and sorted out a non-fish meal for me. The number of generous French people who would invite us to join them for our picnics at lunch time. The French people who invited us to the street party.
The German family with the problem with “Bladders”. All the people we met in France who like us were intending to go all the way to Santiago, including Philip (the only British person we met on the whole trip!). Then there were the Canadian girls and their amazing message that sat there for four days before we walked past and found it.
Our good friends Anne and Seb (of the Hi-Vis hat).
Fr Roger who gave us coffee and Armagnac. Terries and her self giving hospitality, Mme. Sykes and Anthony her partner and that's only a few of the many people we met in France.
Then when we got to Spain there was Johnas and Luc particularly,
but also the wonderful Dutch Hospitalaros at both Roncevalles and Villamayor de Monjardin. Also the two couples we met who were walking the Camino for their honeymoons. And then there were the various Australians and American we met. Not to mention all the every helpful Spaniards who would tell us where the path was, or direct us to the albergues, or just wish us a good Camino as we walked passed them, or would toot their horns and wave as they passed in their cars or lorries.
I think it was principally above all, all these people and many others to numerous to mention which made the Camino for us. To often through the news and media we only hear of the bad side of human nature, with wars, violence and crime. But apart from one notable exception, for fifty days we met the other side of human nature, the great generosity of the human spirit, embodied in people like Therese,
but in many, many others as well, who were prepared to share their lives with us for a short time and to offer hospitality and friendship to a couple of pilgrims who were lucky enough the chance to encounter them upon their journey. When all else has faded about the Camino and we are back into the routine of everyday life, the pictures and memories of all the people we met will keep me going and will be a constant reminder that there is always another side to people and not just the side we see all to often on the news.
LUC
There is so much to reflect on, but to first thoughts. I guess my most special memories about our Camino so far are going to be about the many wonderful people we met, some only once or twice others many more times.
At the beginning of the trip, the three Australians, the French couple who sat with us and sorted out a non-fish meal for me. The number of generous French people who would invite us to join them for our picnics at lunch time. The French people who invited us to the street party.
The German family with the problem with “Bladders”. All the people we met in France who like us were intending to go all the way to Santiago, including Philip (the only British person we met on the whole trip!). Then there were the Canadian girls and their amazing message that sat there for four days before we walked past and found it.
Our good friends Anne and Seb (of the Hi-Vis hat).
Fr Roger who gave us coffee and Armagnac. Terries and her self giving hospitality, Mme. Sykes and Anthony her partner and that's only a few of the many people we met in France.
Then when we got to Spain there was Johnas and Luc particularly,
but also the wonderful Dutch Hospitalaros at both Roncevalles and Villamayor de Monjardin. Also the two couples we met who were walking the Camino for their honeymoons. And then there were the various Australians and American we met. Not to mention all the every helpful Spaniards who would tell us where the path was, or direct us to the albergues, or just wish us a good Camino as we walked passed them, or would toot their horns and wave as they passed in their cars or lorries.
I think it was principally above all, all these people and many others to numerous to mention which made the Camino for us. To often through the news and media we only hear of the bad side of human nature, with wars, violence and crime. But apart from one notable exception, for fifty days we met the other side of human nature, the great generosity of the human spirit, embodied in people like Therese,
but in many, many others as well, who were prepared to share their lives with us for a short time and to offer hospitality and friendship to a couple of pilgrims who were lucky enough the chance to encounter them upon their journey. When all else has faded about the Camino and we are back into the routine of everyday life, the pictures and memories of all the people we met will keep me going and will be a constant reminder that there is always another side to people and not just the side we see all to often on the news.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
First pictures added
I have now added some pictures to the posts I wrote at the beginning of September.
More will follow when I have time.
Jeremy.
More will follow when I have time.
Jeremy.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Back in the UK
As you can see by the title of this post, we are now back in the UK. We arrived late on Sunday evening and were picked up by my parents.
Monday saw us visiting the local minor injuries clinic in St Albans to get my foot checked out. They confirmed that our decision to suspend our Camino to Santiago for this year, was the correct course of action as my foot would only get worse (with continued walking) and it could result in lasting damage. I now have to rest it for the next six to eight weeks.
So what next? We still have just over a month of the sabbatical to run. If we had been able to continue, we would have arrived in Santiago on about the 8th November and would have gone on to Finisterre. We then planned to take some time to reflect on our experience and catch up with family and friends. It is still our intention to do just this and to make good use of our remaining time.
As promised there will be more posts, and I plan to add pictures to many of the previous posts, so please keep reading.
Love Jeremy and Lesley
Monday saw us visiting the local minor injuries clinic in St Albans to get my foot checked out. They confirmed that our decision to suspend our Camino to Santiago for this year, was the correct course of action as my foot would only get worse (with continued walking) and it could result in lasting damage. I now have to rest it for the next six to eight weeks.
So what next? We still have just over a month of the sabbatical to run. If we had been able to continue, we would have arrived in Santiago on about the 8th November and would have gone on to Finisterre. We then planned to take some time to reflect on our experience and catch up with family and friends. It is still our intention to do just this and to make good use of our remaining time.
As promised there will be more posts, and I plan to add pictures to many of the previous posts, so please keep reading.
Love Jeremy and Lesley
Friday, October 23, 2009
Terradillos de los Templarios to Santander
Sometimes (to mix metaphors), everything goes like clockwork, everything slots into place, and everything seems to be meant. Today was just like that for us!
We had a leisurely breakfast, said our fond goodbyes to Lucas and once we had packed we set off.
The walk to Sahagun was across more fenland-like terrain, the highpoint being when we saw a very wild looking pilgrim with a donkey camped by a small chapel.
At about 11:30 we got to Sahagun. We decided to seek out tourist information for options for onward travel. However, despite following the signs we just couldn't find it. Eventually, with the help of some friendly locals, we discovered it was in the Albergue. We got there just as it was opening and were shown a train timetable and given a map to the station. We also got our final pilgrims stamps for this trip. We will no doubt get a second stamp from Sahagun when we come back to complete the Camino.
When we got to the station, we were told that if we took the 2.05 rather than the 1.35 it would cost us €4 each, rather than €11 each. We chose to take the 2.05 and as we waited, across the platform, we saw the Austrian couple who we had shared a room with at the Dutch place. They were also on their way home via Pamplona. We wished them God's speed and a Buen Camino when they resumed.
At 14:05 our train came in. We climbed aboard and set off for Leon. The train took us through small towns and villages which we will visit when our camino is resumed.
Our thoughts had been to stay the night in Leon and travel to Santander tomorrow. However, we decided to look for the bus station and book our tickets for tomorrow. I asked a member of staff at the railway station in my best Spanglish where the bus station was. She replied it was just down the road, and pointed us in the right direction.
When we got to the bus station, we went to the information desk and asked about buses. The lady gave us a piece of paper like a till roll, that made no sense whatsoever. It did however, say it came from ALSA bus (the Spanish National Express), so we went to their desk and asked about buses to Santender. We got given the same piece of till roll. After studying the till roll intently we worked out that there appeared to be a bus to Santander at 3:30 (thirty minutes time), and it was faster and cheaper than the rest of the buses listed. We thought we might as well take it rather than worry about a bus tomorrow. We went back to the desk and sure enough there was a bus at 3:30 that would arrive at 7 pm, for the sum on just over €25 for the two us. The lady told us to go to platform 1 and the bus would appear.
By 3:40 no bus had materialised, but as we were not the only ones standing about, and I had been assured that this was the right stand for the Santander bus, we were not too worried. Eventually a bus appeared, saying Santander, but from a different bus company. I confirmed with the driver it was our bus. We climbed on board, found our pre-booked seats, and were away.
Initially, our journey took us alongside parts of the camino we had walked, and it was a bit strange seeing pilgrims walking along and wondering where they would be spending the night. Eventually we turned away from the Camino and towards the Atlantic coast. The scenery got bigger as we crossed the Picos. With a couple of diversions into small towns to pick up other passengers and a 10 minute comfort break in a town whose main industry seemed to be making biscuits, we arrived in Santander.
We got off the bus and went in search of a bed. The bus station is near the harbour and all the hotels were 3 or 4 star. We headed off and as we debated where to go, an English man out walking his dog, asked if he could help? We explained our search for a hotel and he told us that he didn't know of anywhere cheaper nearby. We therefore decided to go to the Abba Santander (the nearest three star hotel) and enquire about their room rate. If it was too expensive, we planned to ask the receptionist where he recommended. We were offered a room for just over €65, which very pleasantly surprised us, so we decided to go for it.
We are now in a fantastic room with all the mod cons. It is convenient for the town, the harbour and the bus to the airport. After showers we headed into town for food.
As we looked for food we kept on seeing places advertising accommodation, but we are pleased with where we are and will stay here until our flight home.
We also then kept on seeing on the pavement the way marking for the Camino North, a different route to Santiago. One we might take on another sabbatical!
Now off the Camino in Spain
We had a leisurely breakfast, said our fond goodbyes to Lucas and once we had packed we set off.
The walk to Sahagun was across more fenland-like terrain, the highpoint being when we saw a very wild looking pilgrim with a donkey camped by a small chapel.At about 11:30 we got to Sahagun. We decided to seek out tourist information for options for onward travel. However, despite following the signs we just couldn't find it. Eventually, with the help of some friendly locals, we discovered it was in the Albergue. We got there just as it was opening and were shown a train timetable and given a map to the station. We also got our final pilgrims stamps for this trip. We will no doubt get a second stamp from Sahagun when we come back to complete the Camino.
When we got to the station, we were told that if we took the 2.05 rather than the 1.35 it would cost us €4 each, rather than €11 each. We chose to take the 2.05 and as we waited, across the platform, we saw the Austrian couple who we had shared a room with at the Dutch place. They were also on their way home via Pamplona. We wished them God's speed and a Buen Camino when they resumed.
At 14:05 our train came in. We climbed aboard and set off for Leon. The train took us through small towns and villages which we will visit when our camino is resumed.
Our thoughts had been to stay the night in Leon and travel to Santander tomorrow. However, we decided to look for the bus station and book our tickets for tomorrow. I asked a member of staff at the railway station in my best Spanglish where the bus station was. She replied it was just down the road, and pointed us in the right direction.
When we got to the bus station, we went to the information desk and asked about buses. The lady gave us a piece of paper like a till roll, that made no sense whatsoever. It did however, say it came from ALSA bus (the Spanish National Express), so we went to their desk and asked about buses to Santender. We got given the same piece of till roll. After studying the till roll intently we worked out that there appeared to be a bus to Santander at 3:30 (thirty minutes time), and it was faster and cheaper than the rest of the buses listed. We thought we might as well take it rather than worry about a bus tomorrow. We went back to the desk and sure enough there was a bus at 3:30 that would arrive at 7 pm, for the sum on just over €25 for the two us. The lady told us to go to platform 1 and the bus would appear.
By 3:40 no bus had materialised, but as we were not the only ones standing about, and I had been assured that this was the right stand for the Santander bus, we were not too worried. Eventually a bus appeared, saying Santander, but from a different bus company. I confirmed with the driver it was our bus. We climbed on board, found our pre-booked seats, and were away.
Initially, our journey took us alongside parts of the camino we had walked, and it was a bit strange seeing pilgrims walking along and wondering where they would be spending the night. Eventually we turned away from the Camino and towards the Atlantic coast. The scenery got bigger as we crossed the Picos. With a couple of diversions into small towns to pick up other passengers and a 10 minute comfort break in a town whose main industry seemed to be making biscuits, we arrived in Santander.
We got off the bus and went in search of a bed. The bus station is near the harbour and all the hotels were 3 or 4 star. We headed off and as we debated where to go, an English man out walking his dog, asked if he could help? We explained our search for a hotel and he told us that he didn't know of anywhere cheaper nearby. We therefore decided to go to the Abba Santander (the nearest three star hotel) and enquire about their room rate. If it was too expensive, we planned to ask the receptionist where he recommended. We were offered a room for just over €65, which very pleasantly surprised us, so we decided to go for it.
We are now in a fantastic room with all the mod cons. It is convenient for the town, the harbour and the bus to the airport. After showers we headed into town for food.
As we looked for food we kept on seeing places advertising accommodation, but we are pleased with where we are and will stay here until our flight home.
We also then kept on seeing on the pavement the way marking for the Camino North, a different route to Santiago. One we might take on another sabbatical!
Now off the Camino in Spain
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de Los Templarios
At 5 in the morning I woke up to hear torrential rain outside, the weather forcast on the Internet had said 38 mm and it was probably right! Fortunately by the time we got up at 7:30 the rain had stopped and it remained dry for the rest of the day.
Lesley popped out to a bakery, and we breakfasted in style on choco pan, orange juice and yoghurt before setting out.
Just before 9 we were on our way again, leaving our lovely room in the hostal Albi.
After leaving town we walked for 5 km along a Tarmac road, before walking on a rough track following the route of the old Roman road the "Via Aquitana".
However, Tarmac was the last thing my foot needed, and as we walked we came to the decision that however much we might want to get to Santiago and then on to Finisterre on this trip, we were not going to be able to do it.
As we walked we discussed our options. Some more silly than others. Could we find the local branch of "Rent a Donk" and hire a Donkey to carry me the rest of the way. But there were two or three problems with this plan. Firstly, was there a branch of "Rent a Donk?"; secondly neither of us know much about about donkey driving or looking after donkeys -and you shouldn't have animals you don't know how to look after properly; finally it wouldn't be fair to expect a donkey to carry such a heavy weight as myself. So that plan was high and dry in the water.
Our second plan was to wonder if we could hire a bike, but discounted that idea, as I wouldn't have the correct gear and anyway in about one weeks time there is a very big hill that I wouldn't be able to ride a bike up so would have push it instead, which wouldn't help my foot one little bit.
After more discussion, we came to our final plan. We would walk in easy stages, for the next three days to Leon, and then, if the foot was still bad, stop. Leon would be convenient in terms of location (accessibility) and remaining distance (2 weeks walking) for returning either next year or in 2011.
I found this a hard decision to make: after all walking to Santiago in one go has been my goal, since I first had the dream of making this pilgrimage 20+ years ago. I have to admit, as we walked, battling against a strong head wind, I shed some tears.
At Calzadilla de la Cueza we went into the only bar for a coffee. Lucas was there, and we told him our decision. He clasped me on the back and told me it was a wise decision because we can continue another year, and we don't want to do lasting dammage. He then bought us our coffee.
After coffee we set out on our way again with Lucas. The head wind we had been battling seemed to be getting stronger.
The terrain we were crossing reminded us very much of the Fens in Britain. Endless miles of total flatness. In the far, far distance off to out right we could see the Picos mountains, which are already covered in snow.
By 1:30 we were begining to flag, and spotting a picnic area, decided to stop. We said our temporary goodbyes to Lucas, as he had had his lunch, and stopped for ours.
After a 3/4 hour stop we began again, and every step was very painful. The situation can not continue and so this afternoon we have made the decision that we are going to have to pause our Camino for this year.
At 3:30 we arrived in Terradillos de los Templarios, a village that used to be run by the Knights Templars, where we booked into the Albergue.
Being an emotional sort of person, it was tough for me to say to fellow pilgrims that this was probably our last day on the road. After the usual showers and washing, we spent an hour surfing the Internet to find the best way home.
Tommorow we walk about 12 km to Sahagun where our camino will be temporaly suspended, to be taken up again at another date.
We will then get a train to Leon as the first leg of our journey home.
We have now booked our flights, before having our last pilgrims meal for this trip. We ate in the company of our good friend Lucas and it was a very healing evening.
Our Camino will continue and one day soon we will get to Santiago and receive our compostella, before going on to Finisterre. We have achieved an amazing amount: we have walked over 1200 km in 50 days and it has been a fantastic experience. The distance is 12 times the minimum distance for a compostella but not in the right place!
Just because the physical trip is over, please do keep reading as I plan to post my thoughts and reflections on our journey so far.
If you are following this blog from afar and want to know how the story continues, let me have your E-Mail address and I will E-Mail you when our trip continues.
On the Camino in Spain
Lesley popped out to a bakery, and we breakfasted in style on choco pan, orange juice and yoghurt before setting out.
Just before 9 we were on our way again, leaving our lovely room in the hostal Albi.
After leaving town we walked for 5 km along a Tarmac road, before walking on a rough track following the route of the old Roman road the "Via Aquitana".
However, Tarmac was the last thing my foot needed, and as we walked we came to the decision that however much we might want to get to Santiago and then on to Finisterre on this trip, we were not going to be able to do it.
As we walked we discussed our options. Some more silly than others. Could we find the local branch of "Rent a Donk" and hire a Donkey to carry me the rest of the way. But there were two or three problems with this plan. Firstly, was there a branch of "Rent a Donk?"; secondly neither of us know much about about donkey driving or looking after donkeys -and you shouldn't have animals you don't know how to look after properly; finally it wouldn't be fair to expect a donkey to carry such a heavy weight as myself. So that plan was high and dry in the water.
Our second plan was to wonder if we could hire a bike, but discounted that idea, as I wouldn't have the correct gear and anyway in about one weeks time there is a very big hill that I wouldn't be able to ride a bike up so would have push it instead, which wouldn't help my foot one little bit.
After more discussion, we came to our final plan. We would walk in easy stages, for the next three days to Leon, and then, if the foot was still bad, stop. Leon would be convenient in terms of location (accessibility) and remaining distance (2 weeks walking) for returning either next year or in 2011.
I found this a hard decision to make: after all walking to Santiago in one go has been my goal, since I first had the dream of making this pilgrimage 20+ years ago. I have to admit, as we walked, battling against a strong head wind, I shed some tears.
At Calzadilla de la Cueza we went into the only bar for a coffee. Lucas was there, and we told him our decision. He clasped me on the back and told me it was a wise decision because we can continue another year, and we don't want to do lasting dammage. He then bought us our coffee.
After coffee we set out on our way again with Lucas. The head wind we had been battling seemed to be getting stronger.
The terrain we were crossing reminded us very much of the Fens in Britain. Endless miles of total flatness. In the far, far distance off to out right we could see the Picos mountains, which are already covered in snow.
By 1:30 we were begining to flag, and spotting a picnic area, decided to stop. We said our temporary goodbyes to Lucas, as he had had his lunch, and stopped for ours.After a 3/4 hour stop we began again, and every step was very painful. The situation can not continue and so this afternoon we have made the decision that we are going to have to pause our Camino for this year.
At 3:30 we arrived in Terradillos de los Templarios, a village that used to be run by the Knights Templars, where we booked into the Albergue.
Being an emotional sort of person, it was tough for me to say to fellow pilgrims that this was probably our last day on the road. After the usual showers and washing, we spent an hour surfing the Internet to find the best way home.
Tommorow we walk about 12 km to Sahagun where our camino will be temporaly suspended, to be taken up again at another date.
We will then get a train to Leon as the first leg of our journey home.
We have now booked our flights, before having our last pilgrims meal for this trip. We ate in the company of our good friend Lucas and it was a very healing evening.
Our Camino will continue and one day soon we will get to Santiago and receive our compostella, before going on to Finisterre. We have achieved an amazing amount: we have walked over 1200 km in 50 days and it has been a fantastic experience. The distance is 12 times the minimum distance for a compostella but not in the right place!
Just because the physical trip is over, please do keep reading as I plan to post my thoughts and reflections on our journey so far.
If you are following this blog from afar and want to know how the story continues, let me have your E-Mail address and I will E-Mail you when our trip continues.
On the Camino in Spain
Stop Press
Four posts waiting on the Ipod will post them when we find some Wi-Fi
Love Jeremy and Lesley
Love Jeremy and Lesley
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Rest Day in Carrion de Los Condes
Because of the problems with my foot we decided to have a rest day here in Carrion de Los Condes.
I have spent most of the day in our room doing somthing that most people who know me would find very surprising, and that is watching sport on the TV.
I have had a couple of short outings for Coffee and to an Internet cafe to check mail. Unfortunately we were unable to find any cafes with Wi-Fi or any open Wi-Fi connections so have been unable to post the blogs for the last couple of days. However, we were able to read all the comments posted to the blog and publish them, during our visit to the Internet cafe.
We also tried to research the problem with my foot, one possibility is a stress fracture, but we just don't know. We will try to get to Leon and if it is any worse will go and see a Dr.
This evening we went back to the bar where we ate last night. Just as we finished eating in walked Lucas our Belgium pilgrim friend. We had last seen him in Estelle with Jonahs, when we had carried on to the Dutch Albergue, expecting them to be following close on our heals.
Every day since we have wondered where they have both got to, and hoped that we would see them again.
Apparently Jonahs finished his Camino in Lograno, we had thought that he was going all the way to Santiago, so we didn't get a chance to say goodbye. However, Lucas has given us his E-Mail address so we will be able to send him a message.
It was good to see Lucas again and to catch up with each other. As they say every cloud has a silver lineing, our enforced rest day meant that we saw Lucas again.
Hopefully we will be able to walk tommorow, but we take it easy and I will endevour not to walk to fast as is my want!
Perhaps the prayers to St Bol should have been in Spanish!
On the Camino in Spain
I have spent most of the day in our room doing somthing that most people who know me would find very surprising, and that is watching sport on the TV.
I have had a couple of short outings for Coffee and to an Internet cafe to check mail. Unfortunately we were unable to find any cafes with Wi-Fi or any open Wi-Fi connections so have been unable to post the blogs for the last couple of days. However, we were able to read all the comments posted to the blog and publish them, during our visit to the Internet cafe.
We also tried to research the problem with my foot, one possibility is a stress fracture, but we just don't know. We will try to get to Leon and if it is any worse will go and see a Dr.
This evening we went back to the bar where we ate last night. Just as we finished eating in walked Lucas our Belgium pilgrim friend. We had last seen him in Estelle with Jonahs, when we had carried on to the Dutch Albergue, expecting them to be following close on our heals.
Every day since we have wondered where they have both got to, and hoped that we would see them again.
Apparently Jonahs finished his Camino in Lograno, we had thought that he was going all the way to Santiago, so we didn't get a chance to say goodbye. However, Lucas has given us his E-Mail address so we will be able to send him a message.
It was good to see Lucas again and to catch up with each other. As they say every cloud has a silver lineing, our enforced rest day meant that we saw Lucas again.
Hopefully we will be able to walk tommorow, but we take it easy and I will endevour not to walk to fast as is my want!
Perhaps the prayers to St Bol should have been in Spanish!
On the Camino in Spain
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de Los Condes
27.9 km
For the first time in 50 days, since flying to Le Puy on the 1st September, we woke up to rain. When we went down to breakfast, Edward, the son of the albergue owners, told us that it would rain all day. Forewarned is forearmed, and so we ensured that all of our stuff was in dry bags, and we donned our waterproofs.
Equipped as well as we could be, we set out. Over the last five weeks, because of the strength of the sun, the stitching on parts of my boots has come away, and I have been wondering if I would stay dry in the wet.
Soon after leaving Boadilla, we came to the Canal de Castilla, (a great photo opportunity if it hadn't been so wet), which lead to the town of Fromista, where we stopped for coffee.
From Fromista, the Camino follows the main road to Carrion for 18 km using a track called the "Senda" which the guide book writers hate. On a wet and windy day, a hard gravel track on which you can notch up the km's, is perfect.
About an hour out from Fromista Lesley discovered she had a slightly dodgy tummy, shortly afterwards I discovered that I did as well! Fortunately there were a number of villages along the way with open bars!
Over the last week or two, basically since leaving Pamplona, I have been having problems with my left foot. Yesterday at lunch, we had been talking about the fact that we would soon be on the final leg of the Camino. I said "providing our feet behave themselves". This was obviously tempting fate, and later in the afternoon my foot problem flared up big time. It has still been with me today, and we are now wondering if we will actually make it to Santiago or not. We will just have to see if it improves or gets worse over the next few days!
Please don't think that it is beause we haven't had a rest day since Condom, as in effect we have had rest days, with our two very short days crossing the Pyrenees and our long afternoons in Pamplona and Burgos. Also, when we get to Leon we will be taking a full day again.
The reality is that I seem to have a weakness in my left side, evidenced by the broken ankle 4 years ago and the injury four days before we were due to fly out. This present problem is possibly related.
At about 3:30 we arived here in Carrion, and decided, because of our wet gear, which we needed to spread out to dry, and our dodgy tummies, to get our own room with a bathroom.
The truth is because the Spanish have an extra class of accommodation, called hostals, you can get a very high quality room for less than the 2 of us would pay at home to stay in a Youth Hostel! Note that the albergues (pilgrim accommodation) that I have been referring to as 'hostals' are not infact Spanish hostals - I have been using the term in the English sense.
After drying off and with our tummies feeling a lot better, we were able to go out for a pleasant pilgrims meal before coming back to our room to write up our blog and diary before we go to sleep.
In our room we have a TV, and it's obvious from the news that this rain is an unusual event and has affected most of Spain. Hopefully it will blow over and we will have better weather in the morning.
On the Camino in Spain.
For the first time in 50 days, since flying to Le Puy on the 1st September, we woke up to rain. When we went down to breakfast, Edward, the son of the albergue owners, told us that it would rain all day. Forewarned is forearmed, and so we ensured that all of our stuff was in dry bags, and we donned our waterproofs.
Equipped as well as we could be, we set out. Over the last five weeks, because of the strength of the sun, the stitching on parts of my boots has come away, and I have been wondering if I would stay dry in the wet.
Soon after leaving Boadilla, we came to the Canal de Castilla, (a great photo opportunity if it hadn't been so wet), which lead to the town of Fromista, where we stopped for coffee.
From Fromista, the Camino follows the main road to Carrion for 18 km using a track called the "Senda" which the guide book writers hate. On a wet and windy day, a hard gravel track on which you can notch up the km's, is perfect.
About an hour out from Fromista Lesley discovered she had a slightly dodgy tummy, shortly afterwards I discovered that I did as well! Fortunately there were a number of villages along the way with open bars!
Over the last week or two, basically since leaving Pamplona, I have been having problems with my left foot. Yesterday at lunch, we had been talking about the fact that we would soon be on the final leg of the Camino. I said "providing our feet behave themselves". This was obviously tempting fate, and later in the afternoon my foot problem flared up big time. It has still been with me today, and we are now wondering if we will actually make it to Santiago or not. We will just have to see if it improves or gets worse over the next few days!
Please don't think that it is beause we haven't had a rest day since Condom, as in effect we have had rest days, with our two very short days crossing the Pyrenees and our long afternoons in Pamplona and Burgos. Also, when we get to Leon we will be taking a full day again.
The reality is that I seem to have a weakness in my left side, evidenced by the broken ankle 4 years ago and the injury four days before we were due to fly out. This present problem is possibly related.
At about 3:30 we arived here in Carrion, and decided, because of our wet gear, which we needed to spread out to dry, and our dodgy tummies, to get our own room with a bathroom.
The truth is because the Spanish have an extra class of accommodation, called hostals, you can get a very high quality room for less than the 2 of us would pay at home to stay in a Youth Hostel! Note that the albergues (pilgrim accommodation) that I have been referring to as 'hostals' are not infact Spanish hostals - I have been using the term in the English sense.
After drying off and with our tummies feeling a lot better, we were able to go out for a pleasant pilgrims meal before coming back to our room to write up our blog and diary before we go to sleep.
In our room we have a TV, and it's obvious from the news that this rain is an unusual event and has affected most of Spain. Hopefully it will blow over and we will have better weather in the morning.
On the Camino in Spain.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino
30.5 km
Up 264 m and Down 272 m
After a better nights sleep, we were awakened at 6:30 by the "get in at 3 p.m. have a 2 hour siesta and go to bed at 8:30 p.m. brigade". We got up and went down to the bar for breakfast. By 8:15 we were on our way, the dawn was breaking and it was cold, but not as cold as yesterday.
Our route took us along the bottom of a valley and straight through a magnificent gateway in the ruins of the monastery of San Anton. I tried to take a picture but it was so cold the batteries in the camera had gone on strike, (likewise the batteries in my GPS which kept on turning itself off).
We eventually came to the town of Castrojeriz
where we found all the churches locked. We faithfully followed the yellow arrow waymarkings through the town, looking in vain for an open cafe for coffee and a shop for bread.
After getting to the edge of town we back tracked into the town centre and, away from the camino, found a chemist, a supermarket selling fresh bread and a cafe. We visited all three, before ascending to Alto de Monstelares,
a local high point with fine views.
Our route then took us down steeply onto the Meseta again. We debated with ourselves if the steep hill we came down was 'Donkey killer hill' mentioned in "travels with my Donkey" or not? We will have to re-read it again for the third time, when we get home.
After an hour or so we crossed the Rio Pisuerga on a beautiful medieval bridge, crossing into the province of Palencia. Just past the bridge was a picnic area where we stopped for lunch.
We then continued on for another couple of hours to our final destination of Boadilla del Camino to the delightful Albergue & Casa Rural.
We looked at the Albergue (hostal) which was very cramped with few bunks left. For another €16, in the Casa Rural, we could have our own room with sheets and towels, so decided to go for that instead. The room is lovely and simple as is the rest of the Casa. The whole Albergue & Casa Rural appears to have been made out of an old farm. There are many old farming bits about including a couple of threshing sledges. There is a small swimming pool with icy water in it and also various sculptures and other bits of Art work dotted about.
In the casa itself, the walls are adorned with paintings by the owner, who is a very accomplished artist called Begona. I like their work, especially their pictures of the local canal and landscapes.
We had a fine Castillian meal with a great lamb and vegetable soup, followed by a beef stew and flan (creme caramel - which appears to be the Spanish national pudding).
On the Camino in Spain
Up 264 m and Down 272 m
After a better nights sleep, we were awakened at 6:30 by the "get in at 3 p.m. have a 2 hour siesta and go to bed at 8:30 p.m. brigade". We got up and went down to the bar for breakfast. By 8:15 we were on our way, the dawn was breaking and it was cold, but not as cold as yesterday.
Our route took us along the bottom of a valley and straight through a magnificent gateway in the ruins of the monastery of San Anton. I tried to take a picture but it was so cold the batteries in the camera had gone on strike, (likewise the batteries in my GPS which kept on turning itself off).
We eventually came to the town of Castrojeriz
where we found all the churches locked. We faithfully followed the yellow arrow waymarkings through the town, looking in vain for an open cafe for coffee and a shop for bread. 
After getting to the edge of town we back tracked into the town centre and, away from the camino, found a chemist, a supermarket selling fresh bread and a cafe. We visited all three, before ascending to Alto de Monstelares, 
a local high point with fine views. 
Our route then took us down steeply onto the Meseta again. We debated with ourselves if the steep hill we came down was 'Donkey killer hill' mentioned in "travels with my Donkey" or not? We will have to re-read it again for the third time, when we get home.After an hour or so we crossed the Rio Pisuerga on a beautiful medieval bridge, crossing into the province of Palencia. Just past the bridge was a picnic area where we stopped for lunch.
We then continued on for another couple of hours to our final destination of Boadilla del Camino to the delightful Albergue & Casa Rural. 
We looked at the Albergue (hostal) which was very cramped with few bunks left. For another €16, in the Casa Rural, we could have our own room with sheets and towels, so decided to go for that instead. The room is lovely and simple as is the rest of the Casa. The whole Albergue & Casa Rural appears to have been made out of an old farm. There are many old farming bits about including a couple of threshing sledges. There is a small swimming pool with icy water in it and also various sculptures and other bits of Art work dotted about.
In the casa itself, the walls are adorned with paintings by the owner, who is a very accomplished artist called Begona. I like their work, especially their pictures of the local canal and landscapes.We had a fine Castillian meal with a great lamb and vegetable soup, followed by a beef stew and flan (creme caramel - which appears to be the Spanish national pudding).
On the Camino in Spain
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Burgos to Hontanas
33.6 km
Up 301 m Down 289 m
We did not have a good night's sleep. As I reported yesterday our beds were two bunks in a corridor of two sets of bunks. The other set of bunks were occupied solely by a German speaking woman.
When we arrived she had told us all about the hostal as she had stayed here last week! Our suspicions should have been raised, a proper pilgrim never revisits a hostal, unless he is returning from Santiago and that's three or four weeks away!
I had also noticed that our neighbour had put some belongings on the bunk above hers, so people would think it was taken. Again behaviour that a true pilgrim would not countenance
At about 4:30 she returned from town and went to bed, every time we went to our bunks or got anything from our lockers we would hear her muttering at us.
(How can anyone go to bed at 4:30 p.m. and expect to sleep for 15 hours is beyond me).
By 10:00 we were in bed and the hostal staff had turned of the lights and we both went to sleep. Burgos is a lively city on a Saturday night so we both put in earplugs. At about midnight we were both awakened by our neighbour standing by our beds shouting at us, apparently we were keeping her awake and should leave the hostal. We don't think either of us was snoring particularly loudly, (Lesley would have told me if I was, & anyway snoring is part of hostal life)! The 'lady' got short shift from us and was told to use earplugs like the rest of us or stay in a hotel! After such an unexpected outburst in the middle of the night neither of us slept particularly well.
I can report that the Burgos night life continued past 4 am. However, unlike in a comparable British town, I didn't hear a single police or ambulance siren.
This morning our neighbour had the cheek to wish us a good morning, in English so clearly for our benefit. We both ignored her.
Thinking about everything, it's obvious that the woman is not a real pilgrim, but the worst sort of leach on the Camino system. Cashing in on the fact that the city of Burgos offers pilgrims a bed for the night in very pleasant surroundings, for only €3, when she would have to pay €50 or so to stay anywhere else. What was even more galling, was that she was sporting a scallop shell on her rucksack, which is the pilgrim identifier.
Despite our night, the Camino goes on, and by just after 8 we were on the road and heading out of town. It was the first time we could talk together about what had happened, and as a result we did not follow the way markings, but some other pilgrims, and got lost. At that point our faith in humanity was restored when a passerby, seeing us looking at our guide books, told us where we should be and how to get there.
After we left Burgos we came to the fabled Meseta, something that writers about the camino either love or dread/hate.
One of our guidebooks describes it as a relative wilderness. What the Meseta is, is the bread basket of Spain, long rolling hills, covered in wheat fields for as far as the eye can see. Any villages are tucked into valleys or folds in the land. Overhead, you see the occasional circling bird of prey, and ahead, the only thing to break up the sea of corn, is an occasional wind farm. We love it, there are no cars, no Tarmac, good tracks and open countryside.
Tucked into one of the folds in the countryside is the hostal of San Bol, a quirky place we had read about in "Travels with my Donkey".
The hostal itself appeared to be shut, but we had read in our guide book that the spring beside it has healing properties for bad feet. As Lesley is on her third round of blisters and I am on my first alongside other foot problems, we decided to give it a go!
We took off our boots and socks and plunged our feet into the stream coming out of the spring pool. The water was freezing and within a short time unbearable, so with a short invocation to St Bol we took our feet out of the water, and once re-booted set out again. It's to early to tell if the cure worked, but I will let you know in the next few days!
On the Camino in Spain
Up 301 m Down 289 m
We did not have a good night's sleep. As I reported yesterday our beds were two bunks in a corridor of two sets of bunks. The other set of bunks were occupied solely by a German speaking woman.
When we arrived she had told us all about the hostal as she had stayed here last week! Our suspicions should have been raised, a proper pilgrim never revisits a hostal, unless he is returning from Santiago and that's three or four weeks away!
I had also noticed that our neighbour had put some belongings on the bunk above hers, so people would think it was taken. Again behaviour that a true pilgrim would not countenance
At about 4:30 she returned from town and went to bed, every time we went to our bunks or got anything from our lockers we would hear her muttering at us.
(How can anyone go to bed at 4:30 p.m. and expect to sleep for 15 hours is beyond me).
By 10:00 we were in bed and the hostal staff had turned of the lights and we both went to sleep. Burgos is a lively city on a Saturday night so we both put in earplugs. At about midnight we were both awakened by our neighbour standing by our beds shouting at us, apparently we were keeping her awake and should leave the hostal. We don't think either of us was snoring particularly loudly, (Lesley would have told me if I was, & anyway snoring is part of hostal life)! The 'lady' got short shift from us and was told to use earplugs like the rest of us or stay in a hotel! After such an unexpected outburst in the middle of the night neither of us slept particularly well.
I can report that the Burgos night life continued past 4 am. However, unlike in a comparable British town, I didn't hear a single police or ambulance siren.
This morning our neighbour had the cheek to wish us a good morning, in English so clearly for our benefit. We both ignored her.
Thinking about everything, it's obvious that the woman is not a real pilgrim, but the worst sort of leach on the Camino system. Cashing in on the fact that the city of Burgos offers pilgrims a bed for the night in very pleasant surroundings, for only €3, when she would have to pay €50 or so to stay anywhere else. What was even more galling, was that she was sporting a scallop shell on her rucksack, which is the pilgrim identifier.
Despite our night, the Camino goes on, and by just after 8 we were on the road and heading out of town. It was the first time we could talk together about what had happened, and as a result we did not follow the way markings, but some other pilgrims, and got lost. At that point our faith in humanity was restored when a passerby, seeing us looking at our guide books, told us where we should be and how to get there.
After we left Burgos we came to the fabled Meseta, something that writers about the camino either love or dread/hate. 
One of our guidebooks describes it as a relative wilderness. What the Meseta is, is the bread basket of Spain, long rolling hills, covered in wheat fields for as far as the eye can see. Any villages are tucked into valleys or folds in the land. Overhead, you see the occasional circling bird of prey, and ahead, the only thing to break up the sea of corn, is an occasional wind farm. We love it, there are no cars, no Tarmac, good tracks and open countryside. 
Tucked into one of the folds in the countryside is the hostal of San Bol, a quirky place we had read about in "Travels with my Donkey". 
The hostal itself appeared to be shut, but we had read in our guide book that the spring beside it has healing properties for bad feet. As Lesley is on her third round of blisters and I am on my first alongside other foot problems, we decided to give it a go! 
We took off our boots and socks and plunged our feet into the stream coming out of the spring pool. The water was freezing and within a short time unbearable, so with a short invocation to St Bol we took our feet out of the water, and once re-booted set out again. It's to early to tell if the cure worked, but I will let you know in the next few days!On the Camino in Spain
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Atapuerca to Burgos - A New Saint is Celebrated (Or at least we think so).
23.5 km
Today started out even colder than yesterday. So we set out wrapped up in multiple layers to try and keep warm.
We stopped for breakfast in a restaurant near to our starting point only to be served 1 small cup of coffee and 2 very small slices of burnt toast. Which they charged us €3 each for!
To get us warm the path took us up a steep hill to a small plateau which was very reminiscent to us of parts of the Corfu trail, scrub with lumps of limestone sticking out. Before us down below we could see Burgos our destination for the day. It only looked a few kms away but it would be 4.5 hours before we reached its centre.
Our path took us down through more corn growing country, before reaching the outskirts of the City. We then had to go around two sides of the airport, cross a busy road and walk in a park alongside Rio Arlanzon for 8 km before we reached the town centre.
After we grabbed some lunch in a cafe we checked into a very nice new hostal very near the Cathedral. The hostal was arranged in corridors of two sets of bunks separated by a stack of lockers. There is a shower and basin for each corridor, laundry facilities, and vending machines.
We got our domestic chores done and headed into town, to have a look round and do some shopping.
We had seen a pilgrims mass advertised for 7:30 at the Cathedral. At 7 the bells began to ring out and we went off to the Cathedral. What we came across was a bit more than your average mass. For a start the service was being filmed and shown on TV screens all around the building. Secondly, when we arrived there must have been about 300 people there, including many nuns and priests in their dog collars, in fact none of the congregation looked at all like pilgrims.
The service started with the entry of the clergy, about 40 or 50 in robes, followed by no less than six Bishops (three with purple skull caps under the mitres). Obviously it was not just because Lesley and myself were on pilgrimage that such a noble company had gathered!
After the Bishop had censed the altar, a lady read a long statement with lots of references to the Pope, St Raphael something and Burgos. This was followed by the head Bishop censing with incense and sprinkling holy water on a statue, standing to one side of the altar. A priest then tied something around it's neck.
The service continued. When it came to the sermon, the Head Bishop read out a long statement with references to Pope Benedict, the local Cardinal and lots about St
Raphael something and also about Burgos. My guess is that the Pope has made this Raphael of Burgos into a Saint and what we were witnessing was the official unveiling of his statue and the official proclamation of why he is now a saint.
Unfortunately for us it was all in very fast Spanish, so I am only guessing. Also it all took a long time and we were on a deadline if we wanted to get a discount pilgrims meal and get back to the hostal before lock in. As a result we had to leave before the end of the service, so I can't report what happened next.
On the Camino in Spain
Today started out even colder than yesterday. So we set out wrapped up in multiple layers to try and keep warm.
We stopped for breakfast in a restaurant near to our starting point only to be served 1 small cup of coffee and 2 very small slices of burnt toast. Which they charged us €3 each for!
To get us warm the path took us up a steep hill to a small plateau which was very reminiscent to us of parts of the Corfu trail, scrub with lumps of limestone sticking out. Before us down below we could see Burgos our destination for the day. It only looked a few kms away but it would be 4.5 hours before we reached its centre.
Our path took us down through more corn growing country, before reaching the outskirts of the City. We then had to go around two sides of the airport, cross a busy road and walk in a park alongside Rio Arlanzon for 8 km before we reached the town centre.
After we grabbed some lunch in a cafe we checked into a very nice new hostal very near the Cathedral. The hostal was arranged in corridors of two sets of bunks separated by a stack of lockers. There is a shower and basin for each corridor, laundry facilities, and vending machines.
We got our domestic chores done and headed into town, to have a look round and do some shopping.We had seen a pilgrims mass advertised for 7:30 at the Cathedral. At 7 the bells began to ring out and we went off to the Cathedral. What we came across was a bit more than your average mass. For a start the service was being filmed and shown on TV screens all around the building. Secondly, when we arrived there must have been about 300 people there, including many nuns and priests in their dog collars, in fact none of the congregation looked at all like pilgrims.
The service started with the entry of the clergy, about 40 or 50 in robes, followed by no less than six Bishops (three with purple skull caps under the mitres). Obviously it was not just because Lesley and myself were on pilgrimage that such a noble company had gathered!
After the Bishop had censed the altar, a lady read a long statement with lots of references to the Pope, St Raphael something and Burgos. This was followed by the head Bishop censing with incense and sprinkling holy water on a statue, standing to one side of the altar. A priest then tied something around it's neck.
The service continued. When it came to the sermon, the Head Bishop read out a long statement with references to Pope Benedict, the local Cardinal and lots about St Raphael something and also about Burgos. My guess is that the Pope has made this Raphael of Burgos into a Saint and what we were witnessing was the official unveiling of his statue and the official proclamation of why he is now a saint.
Unfortunately for us it was all in very fast Spanish, so I am only guessing. Also it all took a long time and we were on a deadline if we wanted to get a discount pilgrims meal and get back to the hostal before lock in. As a result we had to leave before the end of the service, so I can't report what happened next.
On the Camino in Spain
Friday, October 16, 2009
Belorado to Atapuerca
31.7 km or 19.8 miles
Up 498 m Down 330 m
Having decided to stay in a hotel room last night, it meant that we didn't have to race to get up and out this morning. However, saying this, we were still on the road by 8:45.
Last night we had looked at the books and decided that we would not stay at the next place suggested, San Juan de Ortega, this was because the hostal lacked both central heating and more importantly, hot showers. We therefore planned to stop either at Ages or Atapuerca.
It was bitterly cold when we set out and we noticed a frost on the ground. For the first time in over six weeks on the Camino I had to zip the legs on my trousers and walk in more than just a t-shirt.
We stopped at a Spar shop to get a few bits. After making our selection we went to the till and waited and waited and waited. In the end Lesley had to go and find a member of staff to tell them we wanted to pay for our stuff.
We eventually paid and set out once again. For the first 8 km we continued through undulating countryside until the village of Villafranca Montes de Oca. As we left the village we were faced with a sharp ascent up into the Forrest of Montes de Oca. This was certainly a welcome change from the monotony of the previous three days.
As we walked through the woods we came to a monument to republicans shot during the civil war in 1938. It is an ugly concrete pillar but the inscription is very moving:- "It was not their death that was unnecessary, it was their shooting. May they rest in peace".
Eventually we came to San Juan de Ortega, which is basically a magnificent Church, a hostal and a bar. We popped in to look at the Church (our second open church of the day!), before carrying on our way.
As it was still early we decided to go onto Atapuerca. Atapuerca became famous as the village, near which, the oldest human remains in Europe have been found. It's humbling to think that we may be walking on paths that man has walked on since the dawn of time.
Our hostal is warm and comfortable and we share a room with two others. One chap is from the Czech Republic and the other from Mexico.
For our meal we went to a nearby restaurant where we had the best pilgrims meal we have had in Spain so far. A three course meal, with wine for €11 each.
People have commented on the lateness of my blog postings. I usually write them in bed just before I sleep, hence the times.
So at 11:05 it's goodnight from me.
On the Camino in Spain
Up 498 m Down 330 m
Having decided to stay in a hotel room last night, it meant that we didn't have to race to get up and out this morning. However, saying this, we were still on the road by 8:45.
Last night we had looked at the books and decided that we would not stay at the next place suggested, San Juan de Ortega, this was because the hostal lacked both central heating and more importantly, hot showers. We therefore planned to stop either at Ages or Atapuerca.
It was bitterly cold when we set out and we noticed a frost on the ground. For the first time in over six weeks on the Camino I had to zip the legs on my trousers and walk in more than just a t-shirt.
We stopped at a Spar shop to get a few bits. After making our selection we went to the till and waited and waited and waited. In the end Lesley had to go and find a member of staff to tell them we wanted to pay for our stuff.
We eventually paid and set out once again. For the first 8 km we continued through undulating countryside until the village of Villafranca Montes de Oca. As we left the village we were faced with a sharp ascent up into the Forrest of Montes de Oca. This was certainly a welcome change from the monotony of the previous three days.
As we walked through the woods we came to a monument to republicans shot during the civil war in 1938. It is an ugly concrete pillar but the inscription is very moving:- "It was not their death that was unnecessary, it was their shooting. May they rest in peace". Eventually we came to San Juan de Ortega, which is basically a magnificent Church, a hostal and a bar. We popped in to look at the Church (our second open church of the day!), before carrying on our way.
As it was still early we decided to go onto Atapuerca. Atapuerca became famous as the village, near which, the oldest human remains in Europe have been found. It's humbling to think that we may be walking on paths that man has walked on since the dawn of time.
Our hostal is warm and comfortable and we share a room with two others. One chap is from the Czech Republic and the other from Mexico. For our meal we went to a nearby restaurant where we had the best pilgrims meal we have had in Spain so far. A three course meal, with wine for €11 each.
People have commented on the lateness of my blog postings. I usually write them in bed just before I sleep, hence the times.
So at 11:05 it's goodnight from me.
On the Camino in Spain
Thursday, October 15, 2009
We walk a Marathon - Azofra to Belorado
43 km or 26.875 miles
Up 463 m and down 473 m
This morning we were up bright and early. Just after 8 we were having breakfast in a nearby cafe. The breakfast was a bit basic, and so by 8:15 we were on the road planning our second breakfast in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 15 km (just over 3 hours) away.
Our track took us through undulating countryside, with fields as far as the eye could see. None of the fields have fences, the only dividing lines being changes in ploughing or crop.
Half way to Santo Domingo we came to the township of Ciruena. It was a modern development based around a large golf course. The houses/apartments were all fairly uniform in their look, all had their shutters down, many also had for sale signs up. The surreal thing was that there were absolutely no people (or even cats or dogs) about. Walking through it felt like being in one of those 60's and 70's b-movies where the hero is the last person alive after an outbreak of a plague or chemical war.
I guess the truth is that the houses were built to feed off the golf club, but with the credit crunch etc. people can no longer afford to buy such places.
An hour and a half later we arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a town steeped in the history and legend of the Camino. Its founder Santo Domingo was someone who dedicated his life to helping pilgrims, after being rejected by the local monastery because of his lack of education.
The town's other claim to fame is that it keeps white chickens in it's Cathedral. Why white chickens you may ask.
The story goes that a young man on pilgrimage with his parents, stopped at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The daughter of an inn keeper took a fancy to him, but he turned her down on account of his pilgrimage. The scorned girl planned her revenge and planted some valuables in the boy's bag. She then denounced him, he was caught, tried and sentenced to death.
He told his parents that he was innocent and that they must complete their pilgrimage. They did and weeks later on the way back, they stopped off to visit the place where the boy had been hung. There he was on the gallows and he called out to them to say that because he was innocent, St James himself had been holding him up above the noose for all this time.
The joyful parents ran off to the mayor's house to tell him the good news and get the boy cut down. The mayor was about to have his dinner of a couple of roast chickens and did not want to know, and wouldn't believe them. He said to the parents "your son is as alive as these two chickens" At which point St James steps in again and the two roast chickens jumped off the salver and flew around the room.
The boy was cut down and the chickens and their descendants were moved to live in the Cathedral. No one says what happened to the inn keepers daughter.
After visiting the Cathedral and seeing the chickens, we set off again. We continued through more rolling countryside on a track running parallel with the main Logrono to Burgos road. Road works along the way have affected the Camino, so the road gangs have made a special pilgrims' path right through the middle of their constructions.
Before we set out we had planned a longish day of about 34 km (which in reality would be about 36 with detours etc.) to the village of Villamayor del Rio, where there was a very nice sounding hostal. However, when we got there, there was a sign up saying "cerrado" (closed). We had to continue on to the town of Belorado at least another 6 km away. The path continued parallel with the main road and just as our spirits were sinking to a bit of a low, a couple of lorry drivers passing the other way gave us long blasts on their air horns and big friendly waves. It was their way of saying Buen Camino (good camino -a general greeting for pilgrims), and was just what we needed to raise our spirits. Indeed it made me feel quite emotional.
Eventually we arrived in Belorado at the Hotel A-Santiago, which also had a hostal. However, after walking just over a Marathon distance we decided to treat ourselves and have a hotel room instead.
In our room was a complimentary flask of wine. In the bathroom a shower that was supposed to give you a massage, but succeeded in flooding the floor instead!
We went for our meal and the owner put on a DVD about the Camino. It was great to revisit where we have walked already and to see some of the sights we will see in the next few weeks.
After a good meal, coffees and a long day's walking, hopefully we will sleep well!
On the Camino in Spain
Up 463 m and down 473 m
This morning we were up bright and early. Just after 8 we were having breakfast in a nearby cafe. The breakfast was a bit basic, and so by 8:15 we were on the road planning our second breakfast in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 15 km (just over 3 hours) away.
Our track took us through undulating countryside, with fields as far as the eye could see. None of the fields have fences, the only dividing lines being changes in ploughing or crop. 
Half way to Santo Domingo we came to the township of Ciruena. It was a modern development based around a large golf course. The houses/apartments were all fairly uniform in their look, all had their shutters down, many also had for sale signs up. The surreal thing was that there were absolutely no people (or even cats or dogs) about. Walking through it felt like being in one of those 60's and 70's b-movies where the hero is the last person alive after an outbreak of a plague or chemical war. 
I guess the truth is that the houses were built to feed off the golf club, but with the credit crunch etc. people can no longer afford to buy such places.An hour and a half later we arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a town steeped in the history and legend of the Camino. Its founder Santo Domingo was someone who dedicated his life to helping pilgrims, after being rejected by the local monastery because of his lack of education.
The town's other claim to fame is that it keeps white chickens in it's Cathedral. Why white chickens you may ask.
The story goes that a young man on pilgrimage with his parents, stopped at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The daughter of an inn keeper took a fancy to him, but he turned her down on account of his pilgrimage. The scorned girl planned her revenge and planted some valuables in the boy's bag. She then denounced him, he was caught, tried and sentenced to death. He told his parents that he was innocent and that they must complete their pilgrimage. They did and weeks later on the way back, they stopped off to visit the place where the boy had been hung. There he was on the gallows and he called out to them to say that because he was innocent, St James himself had been holding him up above the noose for all this time.
The joyful parents ran off to the mayor's house to tell him the good news and get the boy cut down. The mayor was about to have his dinner of a couple of roast chickens and did not want to know, and wouldn't believe them. He said to the parents "your son is as alive as these two chickens" At which point St James steps in again and the two roast chickens jumped off the salver and flew around the room.
The boy was cut down and the chickens and their descendants were moved to live in the Cathedral. No one says what happened to the inn keepers daughter.
After visiting the Cathedral and seeing the chickens, we set off again. We continued through more rolling countryside on a track running parallel with the main Logrono to Burgos road. Road works along the way have affected the Camino, so the road gangs have made a special pilgrims' path right through the middle of their constructions.
Before we set out we had planned a longish day of about 34 km (which in reality would be about 36 with detours etc.) to the village of Villamayor del Rio, where there was a very nice sounding hostal. However, when we got there, there was a sign up saying "cerrado" (closed). We had to continue on to the town of Belorado at least another 6 km away. The path continued parallel with the main road and just as our spirits were sinking to a bit of a low, a couple of lorry drivers passing the other way gave us long blasts on their air horns and big friendly waves. It was their way of saying Buen Camino (good camino -a general greeting for pilgrims), and was just what we needed to raise our spirits. Indeed it made me feel quite emotional.Eventually we arrived in Belorado at the Hotel A-Santiago, which also had a hostal. However, after walking just over a Marathon distance we decided to treat ourselves and have a hotel room instead.
In our room was a complimentary flask of wine. In the bathroom a shower that was supposed to give you a massage, but succeeded in flooding the floor instead!
We went for our meal and the owner put on a DVD about the Camino. It was great to revisit where we have walked already and to see some of the sights we will see in the next few weeks.
After a good meal, coffees and a long day's walking, hopefully we will sleep well!
On the Camino in Spain
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Navarre to Azofra
24.4 km or 15.25 miles
Up 258 m & Down 256 m
Today our walk took us through acres and acres of vines. We are now in the heart of the Rioja region, Rioja being one of Spain's finest wines. All the vines are weighed down with grapes. As we walked we saw pickers in the fields, and under the vines were cut grapes, waiting we think, to be picked up. In the late afternoon I spotted another crop, which seemed a bit out of place in Spain, it was a small field of sugar beet.
We passed through the town of Najera, stopping for a coke, before going down to the river to eat our lunch. We then continued onto to our final destination of Azofra where we booked into the municipal hostal which had rooms for two people, rather than the usual multi-bed dorms.
Today was a shorter day for us. This gave us the opportunity to wash clothes in a machine. We were also able to catch up on the blog.
We also caught up with various people we have met on the trail who we had not seen for a few days. Including Mike and Joan the Australian who we met at Orisson in France, who had detoured to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim. We also met up again with Sky and Charlie, an American couple who started in Toulouse on the Arles route. Whilst they walk Sky and Charlie are also doing a photo-scavenger hunt to raise money for "Esperanca" a global medical charity. To have a look at what they are up to go to www.caminodeskyeandcharlie.com. We also met up again with two American ladies from Manchester, Vermont who we had met at the Dutch hostal s few days ago.
As we wandered through the village of Azofra in the early evening we saw a garage with a farm trailer with it's wheels chocked up on one side. At the back corner a man and women were collecting grape juice as it ran out of the trailer. A little while later we passed again and two men were in the trailer treading down the grapes to get more juice our. The last time we passed we got lightly sprayed with the pressure washer they were using to clean down the trailer.
All in all, it was a nice day's walk and a good evening.
On the Camino in Spain
Up 258 m & Down 256 m
Today our walk took us through acres and acres of vines. We are now in the heart of the Rioja region, Rioja being one of Spain's finest wines. All the vines are weighed down with grapes. As we walked we saw pickers in the fields, and under the vines were cut grapes, waiting we think, to be picked up. In the late afternoon I spotted another crop, which seemed a bit out of place in Spain, it was a small field of sugar beet.
We passed through the town of Najera, stopping for a coke, before going down to the river to eat our lunch. We then continued onto to our final destination of Azofra where we booked into the municipal hostal which had rooms for two people, rather than the usual multi-bed dorms. Today was a shorter day for us. This gave us the opportunity to wash clothes in a machine. We were also able to catch up on the blog.
We also caught up with various people we have met on the trail who we had not seen for a few days. Including Mike and Joan the Australian who we met at Orisson in France, who had detoured to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim. We also met up again with Sky and Charlie, an American couple who started in Toulouse on the Arles route. Whilst they walk Sky and Charlie are also doing a photo-scavenger hunt to raise money for "Esperanca" a global medical charity. To have a look at what they are up to go to www.caminodeskyeandcharlie.com. We also met up again with two American ladies from Manchester, Vermont who we had met at the Dutch hostal s few days ago.
As we wandered through the village of Azofra in the early evening we saw a garage with a farm trailer with it's wheels chocked up on one side. At the back corner a man and women were collecting grape juice as it ran out of the trailer. A little while later we passed again and two men were in the trailer treading down the grapes to get more juice our. The last time we passed we got lightly sprayed with the pressure washer they were using to clean down the trailer.
All in all, it was a nice day's walk and a good evening.
On the Camino in Spain
Viana to Navarrete
13th October 2009
21.6 km or 13.5 miles
244 m Down 265 m
Lesley did not have a good nights sleep! Apparently my dad is now ranked very low in the olympic points table for snoring, while I am in the top ten. Mind you I can't comment as I had a very good nights sleep and didn't get disturbed by anyone's snores!
We set off leaving Viana by following various back lanes. They were to us reminiscent of streets we had walked in the third world, with rough tracks and rubbish pilled up all over the place.
Just before we left the outskirts of Viana, we passed a Church and a picnic ground. In the picnic ground were camped a couple of "New age traveller's" with three small children; two goats; and three donkeys and the tiniest tent in the world.
After a couple of hours our route took us to the city of Logrono.
As we came to it's outskirts, we crossed the border between Navarra and Rioja where we had our pilgrims passports stamped at Felisa's house, a pilgrims tradition for a number of years.
There is something surreal about pilgrims walking through a city with backpacks and trekking poles, while all about us, the city folk are working and shopping.
We stopped to visit the church of St Bartholmew, and the Cathedral and to do a bit of shopping. On our way out we lost our way and a friendly native showed us the correct way to go. This is a feature of the Spanish Camino, that if you go wrong, a friendly native will put you right.
After shopping and coffee, we set off again. The local authority have made a long linear park out to the lake at La Grajera, a peaceful oasis for the townsfolk of Logrono and passing pilgrims.
We continued on our way to Navarrete where we were going to spend the night. On the approach to Navarrete we saw an advert for half board accomodation, it was only a few Euros more than staying in a hostal and decided to go for it.
After the usual round of showers and laundry we set off to explore the town. We found an Internet cafe and downloaded our photos. We then went into the church which has a magnificent baroque altar piece, not exactly Lesley's or my cup of tea, but magnificent never the less. All gold leaf and statues and quite stunning.
Saint Roche the Patron Saint of pilgrims
After a nice evening meal we headed for bed.
On the Camino in Spain
21.6 km or 13.5 miles
244 m Down 265 m
Lesley did not have a good nights sleep! Apparently my dad is now ranked very low in the olympic points table for snoring, while I am in the top ten. Mind you I can't comment as I had a very good nights sleep and didn't get disturbed by anyone's snores!
We set off leaving Viana by following various back lanes. They were to us reminiscent of streets we had walked in the third world, with rough tracks and rubbish pilled up all over the place.
Just before we left the outskirts of Viana, we passed a Church and a picnic ground. In the picnic ground were camped a couple of "New age traveller's" with three small children; two goats; and three donkeys and the tiniest tent in the world.
After a couple of hours our route took us to the city of Logrono.
As we came to it's outskirts, we crossed the border between Navarra and Rioja where we had our pilgrims passports stamped at Felisa's house, a pilgrims tradition for a number of years.There is something surreal about pilgrims walking through a city with backpacks and trekking poles, while all about us, the city folk are working and shopping.
We stopped to visit the church of St Bartholmew, and the Cathedral and to do a bit of shopping. On our way out we lost our way and a friendly native showed us the correct way to go. This is a feature of the Spanish Camino, that if you go wrong, a friendly native will put you right.After shopping and coffee, we set off again. The local authority have made a long linear park out to the lake at La Grajera, a peaceful oasis for the townsfolk of Logrono and passing pilgrims.
We continued on our way to Navarrete where we were going to spend the night. On the approach to Navarrete we saw an advert for half board accomodation, it was only a few Euros more than staying in a hostal and decided to go for it.After the usual round of showers and laundry we set off to explore the town. We found an Internet cafe and downloaded our photos. We then went into the church which has a magnificent baroque altar piece, not exactly Lesley's or my cup of tea, but magnificent never the less. All gold leaf and statues and quite stunning.
Saint Roche the Patron Saint of pilgrims 
After a nice evening meal we headed for bed.
On the Camino in Spain
Monday, October 12, 2009
Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana
34 km or 21.25 miles
Up 501 m Down 642 m
The news tonight commented on how Spain is facing a heat wave. As a result Mosquitoes are a real problem with a lot of people being bitten. We are included in that number.
Our room had a fly screen over the window, and because of the heat, the window had been left open. However, the fly screen had holes in it, and we woke up covered in bites.
Continuing their excellent hospitality, the good people from Oasis Trails gave us a proper continental breakfast (with meat and cheese).
We set off down through grape vines. As the path levelled out, we found ourselves in a wide valley. As far as the eye could see were fields, most freshly ploughed, following the corn harvest.
A strong breeze was blowing into our faces. I can understand now why the region of Navarra is at the forefront of the use of wind energy.
After about 2 1/2 hours we came to Los Arcos the destination for many of our hostal mates of last night. We decided to carry on. Our path gently rose to the villages of Sansol and Torres del Rio. Looking to the left and right made us realise just how large Spain is and how vast the vistas are compared with the UK. The views over to our right were particularly barren and desert like, and you could see why Clint Eastwood and others have made so many spaghetti westerns in Spain.
After Torres del Rio, our path took us steeply down to cross the Barranco de Cornava our first real Spanish Barranco, (a steep arid valley).
we then climbed out the other side to arrive at our destination for the night, the town of Viana.
Viana´s claim to fame is that it is the final resting place of Cesare Borgia,and we were able to visit his grave outside the Cathedral door,
where his friends and enemies alike could walk over him.
We decided that we wanted to go up market, so hired a room for the night instead of staying in the local hostal. So after a pilgrims meal at a local bar who also provided Wi-Fi we went to bed.
As we entered Viana we crossed a particular milestone as our GPS recorded that we had now walked 1000 km.
Up 501 m Down 642 m
The news tonight commented on how Spain is facing a heat wave. As a result Mosquitoes are a real problem with a lot of people being bitten. We are included in that number.
Our room had a fly screen over the window, and because of the heat, the window had been left open. However, the fly screen had holes in it, and we woke up covered in bites.
Continuing their excellent hospitality, the good people from Oasis Trails gave us a proper continental breakfast (with meat and cheese).
We set off down through grape vines. As the path levelled out, we found ourselves in a wide valley. As far as the eye could see were fields, most freshly ploughed, following the corn harvest.
A strong breeze was blowing into our faces. I can understand now why the region of Navarra is at the forefront of the use of wind energy.
After about 2 1/2 hours we came to Los Arcos the destination for many of our hostal mates of last night. We decided to carry on. Our path gently rose to the villages of Sansol and Torres del Rio. Looking to the left and right made us realise just how large Spain is and how vast the vistas are compared with the UK. The views over to our right were particularly barren and desert like, and you could see why Clint Eastwood and others have made so many spaghetti westerns in Spain.
After Torres del Rio, our path took us steeply down to cross the Barranco de Cornava our first real Spanish Barranco, (a steep arid valley).
we then climbed out the other side to arrive at our destination for the night, the town of Viana.Viana´s claim to fame is that it is the final resting place of Cesare Borgia,and we were able to visit his grave outside the Cathedral door,
where his friends and enemies alike could walk over him. 
We decided that we wanted to go up market, so hired a room for the night instead of staying in the local hostal. So after a pilgrims meal at a local bar who also provided Wi-Fi we went to bed. As we entered Viana we crossed a particular milestone as our GPS recorded that we had now walked 1000 km.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Puente la Reina to Villamayor de Monjardin
32.2 km - 20.12 miles
Up 742 m and down 541 m
Various people have commented about all the food and drink we have been consuming. Well that was in France, but now we are in Spain and the pilgrims meals are smaller. However, this morning we had a first for Spain, as the hostal, for a fee, provided us with breakfast.
As we get deeper into Spain the agriculture is changing and today we have walked past fields of peppers, asparagus artichokes and olives.
The route today has been on tracks parrallel with a new motorway. Some of them only recently built. However, for a few miles we also walked on an old Roman road and crossed over streams and rivers on old Roman bridges.
As we walked into our first village we bumped into Lucas from Belgium and Jonas from Sweden. We then walked with them to Estella where we carried on.
LUC
Jonas
Just before lunch we came to the "Ermita de San Miguel". Outside was a picnic area, so we decided to see if the chapel was open before we picnicked. For once the chapel was open. It was obvious that it is no longer used for services or looked after by anyone. On the altar many people had left written prayers. However, they had also left, what I can only call, offerings, as well. [On the Camino on wayside crosses and marker posts people place stones, a bit like walkers adding stones to cairns]. Many, many stones had been placed on this altar along with olive branches, cans of coke, packets of cigarettes, sweets and many other strange things. There was somthing animistic about it.
I must admit I found it all a bit disturbing. Not because I am narrow minded, we have travelled to the East and visited temples where offerings are left for the gods. But this wasn't in the East, this was in Spain in a Christian church.
As well as being disturbed I have also been reflecting that somewhere, along the way, we in the Church have let a lot of people down. The evidence of their offerings and the fact they are walking the camino, suggests that they are searching for somthing, trying to fill a spiritual void in their lives, a void that the Churches have not been able to fill. We can't smuggly point the finger at other denominations and say we have it right, as the pilgrims that have left these offerings are from all over the world, including Britain, and probably were exposed to many denominations including our own. The question for us all to think about, is how can we now help them.
After we left Lucas and Jonas in Estella, we passed through the village of Irache whose claim to fame is the "Fuente del Vino", a wine fountain, providing free wine to thirsty pilgrims. Of course we had to stop, but before I could try the vintage, I had to fish for one of Lesley's trekking poles she lost through the bars of the Bodega into a locked yard.
I can report that the wine is very smooth and would highly recommend Vino del Irache!
We then continued on our way, rising gently through woodland and grapevines up to the village of Villamayor de Monjardin.
We had read earlier in the day about the hostal at Villamayor de Monjardin run by a Dutch Christian group, Oasis Trails, and decided we wanted to stay at their hostal. As we arrived, we bumped into Johannes a Swiss German we had last seen at La Fontaille in France five weeks ago, when we shared a mobile home with him. The world of the camino can indeed be very small.
We checked into the hostal and were charged the sum of €35 for a bed each, our evening meal and breakfast, (it should have been €40 but they only charged me €5 for my evening meal, because I had last nights vegetarian meal, as the meal they were cooking contained fish).
We booked in and went in search of beds. Unfortunately all the bottom bunks had been taken and Lesley was not a happy bunny. I demonstrated the technique for climbing in and out and she put on a brave face! Whilst she was in the shower another room was opened for an Austrian couple and I asked if we could move our stuff into the other two beds in that room. On emerging from her shower Lesley found that she would be sleeping in a bottom bunk after all, (the bonus for me is I got a ladder up to my top bunk!)
The four Dutch & one Canadian (of Dutch extraction) staff who ran the hostal all spoke excellent English and made us all feel very much at home. Other guests included four Americans and a Australian, Chris, who was celebrating her birthday, so English was very much the language of choice.
After the meal we were offered copies of John's Gospel, (we explained that we had already recieved one in Conques). They also invited us to join them for evening prayer, which was very moving and was a good antidote to our visit to "The Ermita de San Miguel".
After the prayers, we sat around an open fire talking to the other pilgrims before going to bed.
On the Camino in Spain
Up 742 m and down 541 m
Various people have commented about all the food and drink we have been consuming. Well that was in France, but now we are in Spain and the pilgrims meals are smaller. However, this morning we had a first for Spain, as the hostal, for a fee, provided us with breakfast.
As we get deeper into Spain the agriculture is changing and today we have walked past fields of peppers, asparagus artichokes and olives.
The route today has been on tracks parrallel with a new motorway. Some of them only recently built. However, for a few miles we also walked on an old Roman road and crossed over streams and rivers on old Roman bridges.
As we walked into our first village we bumped into Lucas from Belgium and Jonas from Sweden. We then walked with them to Estella where we carried on.
LUC
JonasJust before lunch we came to the "Ermita de San Miguel". Outside was a picnic area, so we decided to see if the chapel was open before we picnicked. For once the chapel was open. It was obvious that it is no longer used for services or looked after by anyone. On the altar many people had left written prayers. However, they had also left, what I can only call, offerings, as well. [On the Camino on wayside crosses and marker posts people place stones, a bit like walkers adding stones to cairns]. Many, many stones had been placed on this altar along with olive branches, cans of coke, packets of cigarettes, sweets and many other strange things. There was somthing animistic about it.
I must admit I found it all a bit disturbing. Not because I am narrow minded, we have travelled to the East and visited temples where offerings are left for the gods. But this wasn't in the East, this was in Spain in a Christian church.
As well as being disturbed I have also been reflecting that somewhere, along the way, we in the Church have let a lot of people down. The evidence of their offerings and the fact they are walking the camino, suggests that they are searching for somthing, trying to fill a spiritual void in their lives, a void that the Churches have not been able to fill. We can't smuggly point the finger at other denominations and say we have it right, as the pilgrims that have left these offerings are from all over the world, including Britain, and probably were exposed to many denominations including our own. The question for us all to think about, is how can we now help them.
After we left Lucas and Jonas in Estella, we passed through the village of Irache whose claim to fame is the "Fuente del Vino", a wine fountain, providing free wine to thirsty pilgrims. Of course we had to stop, but before I could try the vintage, I had to fish for one of Lesley's trekking poles she lost through the bars of the Bodega into a locked yard.
I can report that the wine is very smooth and would highly recommend Vino del Irache!
We then continued on our way, rising gently through woodland and grapevines up to the village of Villamayor de Monjardin.
We had read earlier in the day about the hostal at Villamayor de Monjardin run by a Dutch Christian group, Oasis Trails, and decided we wanted to stay at their hostal. As we arrived, we bumped into Johannes a Swiss German we had last seen at La Fontaille in France five weeks ago, when we shared a mobile home with him. The world of the camino can indeed be very small.
We checked into the hostal and were charged the sum of €35 for a bed each, our evening meal and breakfast, (it should have been €40 but they only charged me €5 for my evening meal, because I had last nights vegetarian meal, as the meal they were cooking contained fish).
We booked in and went in search of beds. Unfortunately all the bottom bunks had been taken and Lesley was not a happy bunny. I demonstrated the technique for climbing in and out and she put on a brave face! Whilst she was in the shower another room was opened for an Austrian couple and I asked if we could move our stuff into the other two beds in that room. On emerging from her shower Lesley found that she would be sleeping in a bottom bunk after all, (the bonus for me is I got a ladder up to my top bunk!)
The four Dutch & one Canadian (of Dutch extraction) staff who ran the hostal all spoke excellent English and made us all feel very much at home. Other guests included four Americans and a Australian, Chris, who was celebrating her birthday, so English was very much the language of choice.
After the meal we were offered copies of John's Gospel, (we explained that we had already recieved one in Conques). They also invited us to join them for evening prayer, which was very moving and was a good antidote to our visit to "The Ermita de San Miguel".
After the prayers, we sat around an open fire talking to the other pilgrims before going to bed.
On the Camino in Spain
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Pamplona to Puente la Reina
32.2 km - 20.12 miles
Up 472 m down 521 m - high point 757 m
At 8 am we were kicked out of the hostal. Outside it was only just dawn. We stopped in a nearby park for our breakfast, which we picked up yesterday.
Being a Saturday morning the parks and streets were full of Spaniards getting fit; runners in the parks and cyclists in packs on the roads. Every street corner seemed to have a cafe, with quite a few customers even though it was quite early. We stopped at a Panederia for bread and part 2 of our breakfast.
Eventually we left Pamplona behind us. It is a lovely city and one I would like to visit again (one day I will do a post about the things I loved about Pamplona).
Our path took us slowly upward, past the suburb of Cizur Menor. Ahead of us was a ridge, literally covered in wind turbines, all spinning merrily in the wind. We climbed steadily to cross the ridge over the Perdon Pass.
Half way up, our progress was impeded by a flock of about 300 sheep, filling the lane ahead. The scene was very Biblical as the shepherd was leading his flock with his dog beside him at the front, rather than chasing them from the back.
After about 10 minutes the shepherd and flock took a right turn and we continued upward towards the Perdon Pass.
At the top we saw one of the modern landmarks of the Camino, a sculpture of pilgrims on foot or on mules walking to Santiago, with the stars of the Milky Way over their heads. Like many pilgrims before us, we added ourselves to this cameo for a photo call.
Once over the pass, the path plunged steeply downward, levelling out near the village of Uterga. We stopped for coffee and Lesley discovered that her iPod had died in the same way mine had in Figeac.
Arriving at the village of Muruzabal we decided to take a 2.5 detour to the church of Santa Maria de Eunate, described in our guide book as one of the jewels of the Camino. Sadly, as is the case with the majority of the churches we have encountered in Spain, it was locked.
This is something which is starting to make my blood boil, each and every time we discover a church is locked, and something I feel we need to change in our Churches at home. A locked church (unless it is unsafe) turns itself into a private club or museum, rather than a place for worshipping God (I will finish my rant for today and get back to our trip!)
We eventually got to our destination of Puente la Reina, where we had a choice of three hostals. When we had been planning our trip, we read a book called "Travels with my Donkey" where a man walked the Spanish leg of the Camino with a donkey. Having a jackdaw mind, I remembered that in Puente la Reina the author had stopped at a hostal where his donkey had been bated by the people who ran the hostal (so there was no way I was going there). Instead I suggested we follow the donkey's hoof marks and go to the private hostal out of town.
Lesley was not convinced that Puente la Reina was the town where this incident took place until we sat down to eat. At this point, just as in the book, we were served our wine in pint glasses!
The pints of wine helped to soften the blow of discovering this evening that our detailed blogs about our first day's walking in Spain, got lost somewhere in cyberspace never to be seen again. It has been a good days walking despite the disappointments we had.
On the Camino in Spain
Up 472 m down 521 m - high point 757 m
At 8 am we were kicked out of the hostal. Outside it was only just dawn. We stopped in a nearby park for our breakfast, which we picked up yesterday.
Being a Saturday morning the parks and streets were full of Spaniards getting fit; runners in the parks and cyclists in packs on the roads. Every street corner seemed to have a cafe, with quite a few customers even though it was quite early. We stopped at a Panederia for bread and part 2 of our breakfast.
Eventually we left Pamplona behind us. It is a lovely city and one I would like to visit again (one day I will do a post about the things I loved about Pamplona).
Our path took us slowly upward, past the suburb of Cizur Menor. Ahead of us was a ridge, literally covered in wind turbines, all spinning merrily in the wind. We climbed steadily to cross the ridge over the Perdon Pass.
Half way up, our progress was impeded by a flock of about 300 sheep, filling the lane ahead. The scene was very Biblical as the shepherd was leading his flock with his dog beside him at the front, rather than chasing them from the back.
After about 10 minutes the shepherd and flock took a right turn and we continued upward towards the Perdon Pass.At the top we saw one of the modern landmarks of the Camino, a sculpture of pilgrims on foot or on mules walking to Santiago, with the stars of the Milky Way over their heads. Like many pilgrims before us, we added ourselves to this cameo for a photo call.
Once over the pass, the path plunged steeply downward, levelling out near the village of Uterga. We stopped for coffee and Lesley discovered that her iPod had died in the same way mine had in Figeac. Arriving at the village of Muruzabal we decided to take a 2.5 detour to the church of Santa Maria de Eunate, described in our guide book as one of the jewels of the Camino. Sadly, as is the case with the majority of the churches we have encountered in Spain, it was locked.
This is something which is starting to make my blood boil, each and every time we discover a church is locked, and something I feel we need to change in our Churches at home. A locked church (unless it is unsafe) turns itself into a private club or museum, rather than a place for worshipping God (I will finish my rant for today and get back to our trip!)We eventually got to our destination of Puente la Reina, where we had a choice of three hostals. When we had been planning our trip, we read a book called "Travels with my Donkey" where a man walked the Spanish leg of the Camino with a donkey. Having a jackdaw mind, I remembered that in Puente la Reina the author had stopped at a hostal where his donkey had been bated by the people who ran the hostal (so there was no way I was going there). Instead I suggested we follow the donkey's hoof marks and go to the private hostal out of town.
Lesley was not convinced that Puente la Reina was the town where this incident took place until we sat down to eat. At this point, just as in the book, we were served our wine in pint glasses! 
The pints of wine helped to soften the blow of discovering this evening that our detailed blogs about our first day's walking in Spain, got lost somewhere in cyberspace never to be seen again. It has been a good days walking despite the disappointments we had. On the Camino in Spain
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