2011-day 7 - Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzoll

Scores on the doors 35.6 km up 326m down 545m

After a comfortable and quiet nights sleep, we set off at 8 am, even then it was still dark, but the sun was begining to rise, as we planned to walk a long way today we decided to take all the direct routes rather than some of the variations, which might have been a tad more scenic, but were a lot longer!

We arrived in Ponferrada, just before 9 and stopped at a cafe for breakfast, of coffee and croissant, before going on to it's famous Castillo de los Templarios, one of the main bases for the knights templar before their destruction.

The castle looked just like you would imagine a castle should, lots of turrets etc. And it struck us that the 6am brigade would have missed it's glories as they passed it in the dark, head torches scanning for yellow arrows. (but then again, each to his own).

Leaving Ponferrada we had the usual slog through the outskirts, and then through a sucession of villages between which the villages had plots of land where they grew all sorts of intresting vegatables and some times a couple of animals as well, often these plots were behind ornate Walls with fortress like gates.

In one village we stopped at a bar for a coke and rest and as it had free Wi-fi I decided to download a couple of episodes of the Archers, they downloaded sucessfully, but my iPhone managed to then delete all my music and podcasts. What is it with us and technology, two years ago both our iPod's totaly crashed whilst we were on pilgrimage. I am now paranoid lest I loose all the photos I have taken with my iPhone, that would be a tragedy of Grecian proportions!

As we walked deeper into the countryside the grape harvest was in full swing, none of the French or even Northern Spanish hi tech grape picking with grape picking machines, this was family groups picking by hand.

In Ponferrada we had visited a baker and bought some slices of pizza, which we ate sitting beside the river in Cacabelos

With our feet in the water to cool them down, before the last 8km push. As you can see we were beside a big green diving board.  In this part of Spain they dam their rivers in towns to create swimming areas, mind you the water is freezing as it comes straight from the mountains.

As you approach each town or village you are met by notice boards advertising all the different types of accommodation, on approaching Villafranca del Bierzo we notice one for a refugio that also had separate rooms. We decided to try it, and so walked up and down the town trying to find it.

Eventually I asked someone who gave us instructions we didn't really understand, but tried to follow, but still did not find it, I asked a waitress at a street restaurant but she told me that she didn't come from the town, but got the owner who in English gave me directions, we found the albergue but the only space was in a small dorm where people were already in bed at 4pm. We decided not to stay, and eventually found a room with ensuite on a casa rural. The whole process taking about an hour and an extra couple of km's.

An Australian we had met had told us that we could find Internet with a printer in the town, so after showers and clothes washing, we visited tourist information, the lady gave us the details of a bar with the necessary equipment, so we now have our boarding cards for returning home.  Because O Cebreiro, where we plan to go tomorrow, is a tourist destination as well as being an important stop on the camino, we were worried about finding any accommodation, so also asked the girl to book us rooms.

Jobs done we retired to the bar where we had been given directions for a beer, as in the better Spanish bars they brought with the beer a small snack for us as well. In this case it was a large mussel each doused in a fantastic spicy salsa.

We were so impressed we decided to eat there off their 12€ menu rather than find the usual pilgrim fare 10€ menu. For my starter I went for a plate of the mussels,

followed by a plate of Botillo a local dish of pork three ways, a sausage and then a kind of haggis of pork ribs and heart, flavoured with pimenton, and probably cooked by boiling. This came with potato and cabbage, all washed down with local red wine.

As we drank our beers we spoke to a chap called Jeremy from buckingshire, who was on a driving tour with his wife, and then afte our meal with two other couples from Britain and to my amazement I was able to do a little translation for them.

When we went into the bar to pay the owner insisted that we both had a shot of the local fire water, the same as I had in Astorga. Lesley declined and insted got a shot of a fruit drink.

2011 - Day 6 - Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca

Scores on the doors - 27.8 km, up 393m down 845m

Sleeping in a dormatory is always a challange, at 8.30 pm when we got a few bits before the pilgrims blessing in the parish church, people were already in bed and the lights were turned off. We came back from the church and went to bed. Because of my cough I am snoring, I went to sleep and at 11:30 Lesley had to wake me as people were tutting. So then it was the case of trying to sleep on my front and not snore. I did not get a great night's sleep and heard the church clock chime 12, 1, 3, & 5, at 5:30 the first alarm went off. There are a sizable band of pilgrims who set off at 6 am every morning (with the Americans in the vangard) but at Rabanal they were starting even earlier to get to the Cruz de Ferro for sunrise.

We got up at about 6:15 (we had to be out by 8 anyway), joined the hospitalaros for brekfast and were on the road by 7:30.

As we walked the sun slowly rose behind us, it was a red sky but wasn't the forbodeing of dire weather as at home, perhaps the rules are different in Spain.

The path itself was great, whilst rising gently uphill it was good under foot, firm compacted earth, but with a bit of give to it.

The path slowly wound it's way up to the village of Foncebadon and on to the Cruz de Ferro.

Those with good memories will recal how just before we came to Spain we visited Weybourn beach and picked up stones from the beach to bring with us.

The reason to leave at the Cruz de Ferro, why you might ask? Traditionally pilgrims have brought a stone from home as a symbolic laying down of their burdens.

As the stone is left a special prayer can be said "Lord, may this stone, a symbol of my efforts on the pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross of the saviour, weigh the ballance in favour of my good deeds some day when the deeds of my life are judged. Let it be so."

I very soon had need of that ballance as I thought evil thoughts the herds of bicycle pilgrims, who in a bid to be macho had to ride down the narrow pedistrian tracks, rather than the road, scattering us walkers in their wake. The worst being a group of about 20 German cyclists who created so much dust that everything in their wake was covered.

It was then a long hard decent to the village of El Acebo wher we stopped for a coke and to rest our feet.

Before continuing the downward slog. At Molinaseca we had a choice, stop for lunch (it was about 2) and carry on or just stop and get a room. We decided on the latter, and after last night went for a hotel, which overlooked this fantastic bridge and river

2011 Day 5 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Scores on the doors 21.5 km up 154m down 44m

We let ourselves out of our pension at just after 8 the sun was just rising but despite the early hour it was quite warm, which boded ill, as it meant we were in for another scorcher of a day, which it proved to be probably I would guess in the high 20's or low 30's.

Just before leaving the city limits we came to a small chapel which was open, run by the Franciscan brothers, very simple and peaceful. We were then met by lots of runners out for an early run. We crossed the moterway and were out into the country, walking on a track parrellel to the road. We were passed by hoards of bicycle pilgrims, or "bicigrims" as they are known. This time around some days we see far more bicigrims than traditional pilgrims.

After an hour we stopped for brekfast and then onwards always west and slowly up hill.

The sun behind us creating interesting shadowed,

At just after 1 we arrived at Rabinal, we had decided on a shorter day as Lesley is suffering from blisters and both our feet ache. On passing the shop we noticed that it was shut, so decided to book in to our albergue and then get lunch in a local cafe.

We had planned to stay at albergue Gaucelmo because it is run by the Cofraternity of St James the British pilgrim organisation which we are members of. British pilgrims are a rarity, and so we were welcomed with open arms. (But then so were all the pilgrims).

Betty & Dugald the hospitaleros (assisted for a couple of days by Anne and Adrian) are most excelent hosts, showing us where everything was and then invited us to tea at 4:30, after lunch showers and washing settled down in the alberge garden

to read about the next few days and catch up on blogs and diarys. At 4:30 we joined them for tea a tradition of albergue Gaucelmo, our first Tea since leaving England. Doughal is a Permanant Deacon in the Roman Catholic church and regularly leads groups on the Easter pilgrimage to Walsingham, it's certainly a small world!

The albergue is just by the parish church and next to a Benedictine monestry, who lead vespers at 7 and a pilgrims blessing at 9 and I was asked to read at vespers as part of having the lesson in four languages. At 6:55 we were told vespers was canceled, as the monk who lead it had to go to hospital. So we went and ate and just went to the blessing.

During our meal I checked e-mails and we recieved one from Tanya our Spanish tutor, it's great to hear from the folks at home and to know people are Reading our blog.

As my cough is still bad at night we got some pastles from the chemist, to take just before sleep. The chemist said chew two before sleep (or that's what I thought) as Lesley has now told me the Spanish word chupar which sounds a bit like chew is actualy suck, I have chewed and have just broken a piece of a tooth! We will have to see how it is in the morning!

2011 - Day 4 - Villar de Mazarife to Astorga

Scores on the doors 35 km, up 278m down 233m

The guide book had said about the Hostal Jesus, what it lacked in facilities it made up in character and it certainly did, the Walls had been graffitied by countless pilgrims, our room was basicaly a lean to shed with a 4ft double bed. But it also had a fully equiped pilgrims kitchen with an induction hob, free Internet and Wi-fi, a bar, dining room, garden and swiming pool.

However, because of the preperations for the party we decided to go to Tio Peppe's for our meal, we sat with a retired midwife from Mane in the USA and a German civil engineering student, and spent a pleasent evening. We returned to Alburgue Jesus at 10 and the party was in full swing. So we got out our ear plugs and went to bed. At 5:30 when we got up to use the bathroom it was still in full swing!!

When at 7:45 we enquired about brekfast, we were met by very bleary eyed staff, who told us they had to clean the alberge before they could get to bed.

We set off and were met with a 6 km of arrow streight Tarmac (not good for tired feet), before another 4km of streight dirt track.

Eventualy we reached the town of Hospital de Orbigo, it's claim to fame being a a 204m 20 arch bridge.

History tells of a famous jousting competition, which lasted a month, with hundreds of lances broken, and one left dead on the jousting field. Some 600 years later the lists still stand and the competition is re-enacted.

Our next stretch was cross country on rough tracks, seamingly in the middle of nowhere, far softer on the feet than Tarmac. Ahead of us we could spy the Montes de Leon, which we will cross in the next few days. Comming over a rise we then saw Astorga, and about 3/4 hour later were in the City.

It's claim to fame it's twin towered Cathedral and Gaudi bisop's palace. (both shut). We found a room in a pension near the town centre and after showering (where I discovered that the back of my legs were sunburnt) and laundry went to explore.

We looked at the Cathedral and Bishops palace from the outside! And the stunning mayor's office, and then sat in the town square and had a couple of beer's.

We then went for food and I decided to try the local speciality Cocido maragato, the first course was a heaving plate of meat served with chick peas, potatoes and cabbage, the meat including; chicken, spicy sausage, belly pork, pigs trotter, ear, and relleno (stuffing) - this was followed by soup which was a bit like chicken gravy with vermicelli in it. Finally I had ice cream and a coffee, with a glass of the local licquer, which came out of the freezer, was bright yellow, and flavour I can't quite describe.

We then returned to our room to sleep, before starting to head for the hills tommorow.

2011- day 3 - Puente de Villarente to Villar de Mazarife

Scores on the doors 34.3 km up 315m down 269m

At 9pm we went for our meal, only to discover the meal for the day was lunch time only, so we had to go a la carte, so I went for Calamari and Chicken and chips, washed down with a very nice Rose. And then to bed.

After a better night's sleep (woke up at 3 coughing, then snoozed) we were on the road by 8 am.

It was over dinner last night that we concluded that for the Camino walking boots are the wrong footwear, because so much is on Tarmac and hard compacted surfaces running shoes would be better as they have built in shock absorption, probably something like the shoes used by fell runners. However, as we only have boots we will have to suffer with what we have.

For those who might be wondering, if I do my stretches my feet only hurt from the pounding, while Lesley's feet have blisters. (so please pray to St Bol - that they might be healed).

Any way back to the story. After Reading some of the accounts of the way into Leon we were not looking forward to it, as it sounded horrendous dodging vehicles and taking your life in your hands,instead we were greeted with wide tracks away from the roads

All be it full of pilgrims, and purpose built bridges over the busy roads.

At last we hit Leon and had a pleasant walk into the town passing a very posh bank

(so that's where all our money went!) Before getting to the cathedral

Which like all Spanish churches was full of ornate bling

After this we had had enough of the bright lights and after a coffee (where we saw France being hammered by New Zealand - there goes Lesley's bet on France!) we headed off to Virgin de Camino, passing the Leon parrador featured in the film "The Way" a mere snip at £400 per night! At Virgin we decided to go for it and head for Villar de Mazarife.

This would mean a day of about 22 miles. We headed out over a wonderful rough track, soft underfoot and we literally ate up the Km's and passed through a couple of peaceful villages

Eventually getting to our destination at 4:30, we had planned to stay at the Albergue Tio Peppe, but when we got there it was full up, so we headed for albergue Jesus, they explained that they were holding a party but if we didn't mind noise we could stay, and have a room to ourselves for 10 euro, we stayed, and will report on our night, tomorrow.

2011 - day 2 - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Puente de Villarente

Scores on the doors - 32 km (20 miles) up 126 m down 286m

The alarm went at 6:30, we had not had a good night as my cough which I have had for the last 10 days, returned with a vengeance, probably because of the dry air, and it kept me awake with coughing and Lesley with the noise.

We went to breakfast and asked about the local shop, only to be told it had shut. Lesley spying a basket of cakes in the restaurant asked if we could buy some as we knew the next town was over 12 miles away. Fortunately the lady in the hotel was happy to sell them. So armed with our cakes we set off.

The day was cool and sun just rising, we started on Tarmac and before after about 3km hitting a rough track which we followed for the next 22km.

The sun got hotter, but it was behind us and there was a gentle breeze to keep us cool. After a couple of hours we came along side the Railway line we had used to get to Leon in 2009, a couple of hours after that we entered the town of Mansilla de las Mulas, where we stopped for coffee and to post our blogs from yesterday.

To guide us through the town on the road were brass scallop shells which were a useful guide to help us on our way.

As it was only just after two, we decided that we should get a few more Km's under our belts and so continued alongside the main Leon to Valladolid road (not the most serene place to walk) to Puenta de Villarente.

We are staying in a local hotel in a pleasant room, the only down side is that they don't serve food till 9pm, so after a beer we have come back to our room to write our posts before food and bed.

2nd attempt - 2011- day 1 Sahagun to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Scores on the doors 15.5 km up

92m down 142m

We arrived in Sahagun where since our last visit the railway station has been refurbished (I like to think in our honour).

On the train we had got our gear basically sorted out so were ready to go once we got some water and the GPS finally decided it was in Spain. As we walked through the town we saw a few pilgrims who as they did not follow us, had finished for the day.

The route took us over an old stone bridge, and then on a track parallel to the main road shaded from the sun by trees. And the shade was needed as it was very hot, now at 11pm is still 24•c

A few miles later we came to a dividing of the ways and decided to go the more authentic route following an old roman road, and arrived at our destination at about 6 pm in good spirits.

We have a nice twin room and have had an excellent three course pilgrims meal, for me of Lentils, meatballs and Spanish flan washed down with a very mellow red wine. And as Samuel Peeps was fond of saying "and so to bed"

We have arrived in Spain

After an good night's sleep, at the Stansted Holiday Inn express, and with the help of a bottle of Australian red. (courtesy of our good friends Yvonne and Paul - thanks guys it was much appreciated).

We woke at 5 am had a leisurely breakfast and caught the 6:30 bus to the airport. After a short wait to check in my rucsack and the titanium plate in my foot setting off the security gate we were in departures.

It was there I discovered a minor disaster as my sunglasses had broken an arm off. So off to the shops, I declined the alure of designer labels at The Sunglass Hut and picked up a £15 pair in JB Sport (a far cry from my usual £3.99 Liddl specials.

Shortly after that our flight was called and we were off to the gate, we took off about on time and arrived in Valladolid.

After reclaiming my rucksack, we decided to try for the 12:30 Sahagun, which meant going for a taxi. Lesley exlained to him we were in a hurry to the train and he put the peddle to the metal and got us there with time to spare.

We are now on the train and should get to Sahagun by about 2 and should be back in the trail shortly after.

T minus 59 Hours

The countdown is now on, in less than sixty hours we will be starting our second attempt to get to Santiago. Our rucksacks are packed, we just need to put the final things in our bum bags and string bags for the flight out and we will be ready.

Yesterday we visited our local beach at Webourne to find a special stone each to take with us

You might ask why, when we have been so careful with weight we want to take a stone?

Well all will be revealed when we get to the Cruz de ferro. But before that I have an ever increasing list of things to do before we go!

Jeremy

The Foot

Most people will be aware of my preoccupation and worry about my foot, and if it will hold up on the next stage of our pilgrimage to Santiago.

Last week we spent a week in the Yorkshire Dales, having a spot of R & R, and doing a bit of hill walking. In five days we walked up the famous Yorkshire three peaks and also a couple of local walks as well. Overall the foot behaved itself but by the end of the week I was feeling a little bit of discomfort.

As soon as we got home, while I still could identify where the discomfort lay, I raced down to my podiatrist and was able to get an immediate appointment. After much prodding and poking, he was able to identify the problem which is caused by overwork to one of the tendons in the foot. He has given me some stretching exercised to do and hopefully with those I should be able to do the walk, but must just listen to the foot and take it easy, and not try to be a terminator, walking far to fast and hard.