As with previous days this week, the day started with a thick mist which did not burn off until about mid-day. After breakfast, we set out walking. Our first task was to rejoin the camino as we were off piste, this we did after a couple of KMs. Again the way took us through fields of grape vines, either freshly harvested or heavy with grapes awaiting the harvest. After about 6km, we came across a small church where we stopped to say morning prayer. As we prayed a French couple came in for their own prayers. We left them to their contemplation and carried on our way.
We soon encountered one of the groups of what we call "plastic pilgrims" (a large group, who book up all the accommodation, have a car to take their baggage from A to B, so they walk with tiny daysacks, and at lunch time bring them a sumptuous picnic with coffee, wine and all the trimmings). This particular group were also taking bunches of grapes off the vines, eating a few and then discarding the rest.
We lost this group at lunchtime as they stopped to await their caterers.
Our host at Arblade-le-Haut had been keen to suggest another shorter route to Aire-sur-l'Adour, which he thought was prettier, but we had decided to follow the official GR65 route instead. At about 1pm our route turned a sharp right to walk beside a railway line. At the turn was a notice board empty except a notice in a sandwich bag that read in large letters "Jeremy + Leslie Norfolk England".
It was a note from the three original Canadian women, Maureen, Melanie and Nadine, saying "hope this finds you + your feet + pilgrim bear are well. This is our last day". It was dated the 24th and had been waiting for us for 5 days. We had last seen the girls in Cahors where they were leap frogging to Condom as they had done that leg already. Also left with the note was a fruit bar from someone from Quebec - if you ever read this blog girls, it was great to find your note and it really boosted our spirits. We hope the rest of your Camino goes well over the next few years.
Buoyed up, we went on our way. A little while later we came across a bench with signs and notices inviting pilgrims to take a rest. We were also invited to help ourselves to drinks and fruit, but, alas there was none. The bench had been put there by a lady called Elizabeth to aid pilgrims on their way.
A little later on we stopped for lunch, and as we sat the French couple who had come into the church during our morning prayer passed, stopping to have a chat with us about our journey.
We continued towards Aire-sur-l'Adour passing by a couple of large supermarkets and walking along a busy main road before crossing the river Adour on a bridge festooned with flags of all the European nations reaching the town of Aire-sur-l'Adour itself.
We stopped at the Office de Tourisme, to get directions to our gite, the totally aptly named "La Maison des Pelerins" owned and run by a former pilgrim. Before we got there we liked the fact that Jean-Michel the owner would not let large groups block book the accommodation. In some ways the house reminded us of the Tea Houses we stayed in Nepal, even down to the Buddhist pray flags and picture of the Dali Lama! As accommodation went it was what Pilgrims accommodation should be about. It wasn't glitzy like some of the places we have stayed, it was simple and down to earth, with a large kitchen for us to cook in, laundry facilities, simple but clean bedrooms, bathrooms an loos and a comfortable common room to relax in.
We arrived and after booking in, were greeted by Seb and Ann our French friends, who offered to cook for us all. After the usual washing and showering we headed into town and found an open Wi-Fi spot, posted our blogs and picked up emails from friends and family. Over a glass of beer I also started to catch up on the latest goings on from Ambridge which I haven't heard for a month.
We headed back to the Gite and offered to help with the cooking, but were turned down as Seb wanted to cook for us! We relaxed in the common room and I phoned Dad to wish him a happy birthday. We then sat down to eat, Seb had cooked a wonderful tagliatelle dish, with turkey and goats cheese. Accompanied with a lovely green salad. We were joined for the meal by Gwen a Breton who was on his own, and had been invited by Seb to join us, at the table were an older French couple eating their meal, with us all joining in the conversation and sharing our wine. Once we had cleared away Ann sat down and played the piano, while Gwen played a guitar and sung old British and American pop songs. All in all it was a fantastic day.
When we had set out this was what I had imagined the camino spirit to be about, but had not fully experienced, today we had had it in spades!
On the Camino in France
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