Up 498 m Down 330 m
Having decided to stay in a hotel room last night, it meant that we didn't have to race to get up and out this morning. However, saying this, we were still on the road by 8:45.
Last night we had looked at the books and decided that we would not stay at the next place suggested, San Juan de Ortega, this was because the hostal lacked both central heating and more importantly, hot showers. We therefore planned to stop either at Ages or Atapuerca.
It was bitterly cold when we set out and we noticed a frost on the ground. For the first time in over six weeks on the Camino I had to zip the legs on my trousers and walk in more than just a t-shirt.
We stopped at a Spar shop to get a few bits. After making our selection we went to the till and waited and waited and waited. In the end Lesley had to go and find a member of staff to tell them we wanted to pay for our stuff.
We eventually paid and set out once again. For the first 8 km we continued through undulating countryside until the village of Villafranca Montes de Oca. As we left the village we were faced with a sharp ascent up into the Forrest of Montes de Oca. This was certainly a welcome change from the monotony of the previous three days.
As we walked through the woods we came to a monument to republicans shot during the civil war in 1938. It is an ugly concrete pillar but the inscription is very moving:- "It was not their death that was unnecessary, it was their shooting. May they rest in peace". Eventually we came to San Juan de Ortega, which is basically a magnificent Church, a hostal and a bar. We popped in to look at the Church (our second open church of the day!), before carrying on our way.
As it was still early we decided to go onto Atapuerca. Atapuerca became famous as the village, near which, the oldest human remains in Europe have been found. It's humbling to think that we may be walking on paths that man has walked on since the dawn of time.
Our hostal is warm and comfortable and we share a room with two others. One chap is from the Czech Republic and the other from Mexico. For our meal we went to a nearby restaurant where we had the best pilgrims meal we have had in Spain so far. A three course meal, with wine for €11 each.
People have commented on the lateness of my blog postings. I usually write them in bed just before I sleep, hence the times.
So at 11:05 it's goodnight from me.
On the Camino in Spain
4 comments:
The distances you are walking are amazing. They seem to be getting longer and longer! Is this to be sure of getting to Santiago before you come home, or because you are just so healthy that you can do more and more? As far as we can remember, you have only had 2 day's off in 6 weeks.Lesley will be leaving the car at home and walking to work. You will certainly miss all your walking such long distances.Lots of love Mum and Dad.
What's wrong with cold showers? Birgit
Early morning can be a bit nippy in England now. It is mid October after all. Heavy rain is forcast for the south of France, and Ungi and co. hope you avoid that.
I am moved by your attention to detail; the texture of your language; you can almost smell the air, feel the ground underneath your feet. Such landscapes! Its wonderful and humbling, isn't it to be part of all these different worlds? To meet for a moment the people you encounter along the way, to smile, exchange a few words, a nod of the head, and to perhaps discover that you have made some lasting friendships too. This journey is both a revelation and necessity I think.
Love, Sarah xx
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