Sunday, October 2, 2011

2011 - Day 11 - Sarria to Portomarin

Scores on the doors 22.9 km up 350m and 379 down.

We both got a good nights sleep and so were good to resume the trail. We have already passed the 100 mile mark at O Cebreiro, today we will be passing the 100 km mark as well. Before the sun rose fully it was quite cool but with the occasional blasts of hot air a fortaste of the day to come.

Again like yesterday we were blessed with small tracks and paths and very little tamac,


as I think I said yesterday now we are nearing Santiago we are expected to get two stamps in our pilgrims pasport each day, preferably from Churches, so after an hours walking we stopped in the church at Barbadelo to get our first. We then continued on for a while longer when a bar came into sight, where we stopped for Cafe con leche and toast for breakfast.

We continued on and the day got hotter and hotter. In Galicia the Km's to Santiago are marked down 1/2 km at a time, one guide book says about the first one on the border with Castilla y Leon "the distance given is somewhat optimistic". However, I was still looking forward to seeing the 100km post, at 101.5 we were suddenly diverted off the route, as they were repairing the track, we walked and walked and I was convinced that the diversion would cause us to miss this memorable point, fortunately just in the nick of time our path was back on course.


Sadly it had been covered in Graffitti, but then it was only symbolic as the real 100km point was 9km later at the 91km marker post,


which I thought we would miss as the camino menders had taken us on another diversion.

Eventually our destination for the day the new town Portomarin, the original town being drowned by the Embalse de Belesar, a vast reservoir, a project built in the 1960's during the Franco era, all that was preserved were the Churches and other historic buildings, which were moved stone by stone to their new destination. As 1960's new towns go the Spanish have got it right in a way that we failed miserably in Britain.

With the present heat wave the reservoir is very low and the foundations of the old buildings can be seen.


We entered town up some steps and through a portico that had also been preserved


And found our Albergue where being very brave we had booked a room on the telephone yesterday.

After showers, laundary and a nap (Jeremy only) we headed into town got our third stamp of the day, had a beer and then some food, me squid stew and steak!

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